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switching soils..can i do it?

mmaaxx
I tried to research this on the internet as much as I could and I never really heard any outcomes of growing with expert gardeners perfect mix potting soil

it says
Grows Three Ways!
Fast-release plant food gives plants a vigorous start.
Colorcote slow-release plant food provides extended feeding up to 9 months.
Beneficial micronutrients for beautiful plants

If seeds were planted in cups with this type soil, should they be put in a different type of soil with a bigger pot when they are transplanted?

Do you only water when the soil looks dry like it would on the ground outside if it had not rained in a while?

If the grow is planned for over a three month or so period and the jogging method is going to be used what size pot is reccommended?

Purplish stems, seeds just sprouted, no real leaves yet just the 4 little ones that pop out first, does that mean anything or its normal?
halfbreed420
From what I've been told, time release fertilizer in soil isn't a good way to go. It's best to get a neutral soil and provide your own nutrients.
Joe Gardener

No one I have read promotes time release for MJ.
Maybe I am wrong I have no experience here.

 To be honest, I understand that MJ doesn't require any special soils.
 It can use more nitrogen and at times more phosphorus.
So we feed more nitrogen as we see fit and other things.

I promote the micronutes and zinc since many soils are lacking in being healthy living soils.  In fact many are mixes of raw materials that in time will decay into healthy bio-active soils but at first are not as supportive as they can be in time

I like kelp meal and or green sand in the mix.

I think many gardeners want to limit nitrogen at flowering so time release nitrogen may not be good.

Liquid kelp in the water is good too. imo.

mmaaxx
just doesnt answer and of my questions though. what size pots should they be transplanted to and can i use a better soil setup or will that cause problems
boyin
the best thing i can suggest. is the bigger pots the better, the more room you leave for the roots to grow and search for water. the stronger roots you will have, and the means stronger, bigger plant= bigger buds.. dont use time release soil, go buy some good soil and get the proper plant food, example... vegetative state 20-20-20... and then flowering 10-60-10.. or something close to... the truth is.. time release is useless because you should and will be looking at your plants daily and feeding them at the proper times, when you start to feed them,use about a third of the recommended dosage and slowly work your way up to the dosage on bottle.. as for watering... only water when they need it... over watering is the easiest thing to do.. and it doesnt help your plants,they grow bigger and stronger looking for water.. so water when you see that they look THIRSTY>>> drooping leaves a little.. or put your finger in a couple of inches, if it feels moist at all, they are ok, because there is still water lower down that the plant is using... sum it up.. water less.. feed with regular feeding and bigger pots better. good luck
Joe Gardener

Quote: from mmaaxx on 7:46 pm on Feb. 8, 2006
just doesnt answer and of my questions though. what size pots should they be transplanted to and can i use a better soil setup or will that cause problems



What sized pots...  Well I like 5 gal and above myself.
I have some 7 gal but I use a large homemade box when I ...
Nature has lots of space but also competition but I digress.

Much has to do with growing styles and your experience in growing.

If I used a short 7 gal I'd be happy.  Some folks use those tupperware bins you can buy at wallmart.  I like that better than the 7 short.

Here is my take on starting plants in soil and perhaps you will enjoy my yarn.

I like the idea of taking a small volume of soil and start the plants in that.
That small volume of soil can be in a small pot, a peat pot or a Soil Block.

Soil Block you say?  Yes ....  GrowOrganic.com has soil block makers.

The idea is to give the transplant the least amount of shock when placed into new soil.
I hate to take loose soil out of a pot to transplant so I like peat pots or soil blocks and the ilk.

As far as I know given a great season of sun and rich earth some plants can put on many ounces each.
So with that as an ideal the larger the area for roots and the beter the sun the better.
We have to set limits so I'd pick my custom box over a tupperware tub.
What can I say I'm a soil freak.

Do what you can.  I stay on the natural side as much as possible.

As for soil.  The best is always home made compost.
There is a special zing in well crafted fresh compost imo.

Did I provide a good yarn?  I'm a yarner today pardon.

I think other members can say more about smaller containers like 5 gal or so; I understand that one can use smaller with clones and things work out.  Mothers are often given free range.
Like I said it's about grow styles.


Oh and the area you are lighting up.

mmaaxx
see the thing is there is basically four feet of space length wise and enough space for 3-5 gallon pots width wise just not length wise.  fitting 4 13.5 quart pots (3 gallon + 1.5 q) just barely fits without the edge of the pot hanging over an  inch or two from the fluor

there will be 4 plants vegging then when they show their sex they will get cut down to only females..
halfbreed420
Considering your space I think 3 gallon will be sufficient. You'll need to start flower as soon as alternating nodes.
Joe Gardener
what fluro?

If you have fluro's you may want just one centered to the light.

Fluro's are fair lights in quanity.  I ran 480 watts with 6 dual light shop lights. cool+warm bulbs.
Did well but not even close to 1k hps.
If you have low wattage best to work with the plants center to the light ino
Add reflective walls close to the plants etc...

mmaaxx
what do you mean center to the light? see the thing is I have 2 shop lights so I have that gap inbetween the two bulbs from one shop lite and the two from another.
 
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