MellowDood
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tools
- dewalt drill + drill bits + extra battery
- 1.5" flat wood bit
- crafstman jig saw
- shopvac or other heavy duty vacuum
- caulk gun
- tape measure
- sand paper
materials
box structure
(5) 2x2 pressure treated wood planks, 8ft long [actual: 1.25x1.25"]
(2) 1/2" blondewood boards 4x8ft
(1) 3" nails, pack of 20
(1) #8 1" wood screws, pack of 100
(1) 48" door hinge
(4) 4" heavy duty casters
(3) tube of silicone caulk
(1) latch kit
circulation
(1) 265cfm hydrofarm blower fan
(1) 4" aluminum ducting, 25ft
(3) 4-5" hose clamp
(1) 1" inner diameter pvc pipe, 10ft long
(15) 1" pvc coupling
(5) 1" 90-degree pvc elbow
(5) 1" 45-degree pvc elbow
(2) bottle of super adhesive (for pvc/wood)
(1) 1/2" weatherstripping, 25ft package
(1) rubber washers, pack of 12
(1) #8 2" bolts, pack of 4
(1) #8 nuts, pack of 4
(1) #8 1/2" wood screws, pack of 4
lighting
(1) 400W HPS, remote ballast, supersun air-cooled hood
(1) 1/2" rubber-coated hooks, pack of 2
construction
home depot, lowe's, and most hardware stores will cut wood to your desire...these are our measurements for the 2x2s:
piece 1: 24.5" + 24.5" + 45" [+ 4" scrap]
piece 2: 24.5" + 24.5" + 45" [+ 4" scrap]
piece 3: 45" + 45" [+ 6" scrap]
piece 4: 39" + 39" [+ 18" scrap]
piece 5: 39" + 39" [+ 18" scrap]
* scrap pieces will be useful later so hold onto them
...and the 1/2" plywood:
board 1:
(2) 28x48" pieces (left/right walls)
(1) 39x47.5" piece (back wall)
board 2:
(1) 39x47.5" piece (door)
(1) 28x40" piece (ceiling)
(1) 27x39" piece (floor)
the 24.5" and 39" pieces make up the top and bottom of the frame, forming a rectangle 27x39", which leaves 1/2" on each side for plywood walls, for total dimensions of 28x40"
the 45" pieces go in between the top and bottom rectangles, making the frame 47.5" tall, which leaves 1/2" on top for the ceiling, for total height of 48", excluding casters (the 1/2" for the floor goes on the inside...you'll see)
ALWAYS REMEMBER: measure twice, cut/drill once
first lay out the bottom rectangle, then drill guide holes that are about 1/3 the width of your nails. hammer 1 nail per corner. repeat for top rectangle, then do the same for the long supports in between the two recatangles you have now.
in this picture you see the frame complete and one wall attached...i got ahead of myself and forgot the pictures for a minute:
next, each wall is placed on the frame and aligned properly. beginning with the back wall (seen above), each edge should be flush with the frame. that is, no part of the plywood hangs over the 2x2s.
guide holes are drilled, 4 on every side, as evenly spaced as possible. (16) #8 1" screws are screwed into place, holding the wall securely to the frame:
screws placed in guide holes ready to be screwed down
[wood glue on the frame is optional]
the side walls (seen above, below) should be flush with the frame on top and bottom, just like the back wall. at the back of the frame they should be flush with the back wall, and at the front of the frame they should hang over 1/2" in order to accomodate the door, as you can see here:
in order for the floor to fit inside the frame rectangles must be cut from the corners with the jig saw. if the frame were accurately measured and precisely assembled these rectangles should actually be perfect 1.25" squares, but it was not exact, so we flipped the box upside down and placed the floor piece on the frame. then i marked roughly where the frames intersect in the corners and cut out those rectangles. even with imperfect cuts the floor will jam into the bottom of the frame with little force. however, when assembly is extremely accurate light leaks are minimized. as with the walls (16) #8 1" screws secure it to the frame:
this frame is definitely solid:
now the hinge is screwed to the left wall, and then to the door, which should be flush with the frame on all sides, just like the back wall. although very strong, this did not turn out to be the most ideal hinge because the gap between the door and frame is particularly large and difficult to seal...either that or our left wall was not precisely aligned:
the last main structural piece is the ceiling, which is attached exactly like the rest of the pieces. it should be flush with the back and side walls as well as the door when it is closed:
notice how having the floor sitting on top of the bottom frame provides additional floor space on all sides with a sacrifice of less than 2" height.
casters are screwed into the frame for maximum support. due to their size only 3 holes can be used, but they are still extremely strong:
getting closer and closer...
here you see the supersun hood hanging from the 1/2" hooks in the ceiling, a pvc coupling covering the first of (10) 1.5" diameter intake holes, and (12) 8" round pots, 3L each
intake holes drilled, unsanded...measure these carefully and use the 1.5" flat wood bit to drill the holes:
have your helper hold the fan inside the box so that the intake on the fan is aligned with the ducting attachment on the hood. measure the distances from two edges of the frame from the inside, then measure them again from the outside to replicate this:
when you find each corner you can place the fan upside-down on top of the box and trace each hole for drilling. draw a rectangle 4.25x3.75" centered between the 4 circles; this is going to be the exhaust hole. start the hole with the 1.5" flat wood bit.
cut out the exhaust rectangle piece by piece with the jig saw, then sand it down:
...and this will be the result:
now the box is ready for the fan to be mounted. pad it with weatherstripping:
using the nuts, bolts, and rubber washers secure the fan to the ceiling:
although this is not the intention of this piece of ducting attachment, the right side of the hood sacrifices it in order to attach ducting to the exhaust. weatherstripping and #8 1" screws are used to secure it to the box:
despite purchasing high quality lumber the door piece is slightly warped, so we screwed a piece of scrap onto the inside to straighten it:
this gave us an idea for a handle with a smaller piece of scrap:
finally, the latch is installed at the top of the door (where there is the largest gap between the door and frame):
and 10 days later, the trained mother with her first clones:
notice the caulk along inside edges where the frame and walls meet; this fills light leaks. walls will be painted flat white when time allows.
pvc pipe is attached by placing a coupling under a hole, then jamming a 2" piece of 1" inner diameter pvc pipe into the coupling, filling the gap with super adhesive, then jamming another coupling on top until the pieces tightly grip the floor. once the adhesive dries they will be hard as a rock. varying lengths of pvc pipe can be inserted into these couplings that are now cemented to the floor; elbow attachments are also removable.
wiring for the fan and hood is fed through the intake pipes. in order to do this for the hood the socket mount had to be disconnected and then rewired, which was much easier than predicted.
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what it's all about - Dutch Passion White Widow ... thanks marymary!!! :)
read a lot @ GK, learn a lot from GK, grow a lot w/ GK
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