I was running a 400 watter but I am putting in a 600 HPS soon, its over kill but I need to use it still N.I.B. LOL to get the ideal 50 watts/square foot I would need 450 watts so..... I would like to use 1 light for both veg and flower...... MAD MAX
My area 51 xgs 190 all white did Well for both. I'm sure the new rw 150 Will do fine. We'll see with the next round. I got pictures in the grow log section in the led dwc scrog thread. I'm gunning for 3/4lb+ with 345W. Or... if you're handy with a soldering iron I could point you in the direction of some guys who could assist with some good diy knowledge and advice.
I have been watching your log I would be interested as I am a D.I.Y.'er that would be an interesting project MAD MAX
I have a question for any other led growers How far are you keeping your lights from the canopy? I did a bunch of lighT measurements from my old hps environment and found with the LEDs I had much higher lumen readings at the canopy with the light double the distance I used to run the hps Just wondering what others are doing - maybe I can get even more out of my plants by moving closer - just don't want to burn them up
I have pics of a 10x20 room that is using all ONYX Bloom leds if anyone wants to see the progress. Also I can answer any questions that you may have about LEDS. I helped RapidLED make the ONYX.
YUP 3 weeks from harvest on the BC - nice and chunky as good or better than the HPS run JBKO at 3 weeks flower - really nicely developed buds Personally like the berry kool-aid
Please share!!! Would love to see how many units were needed to cover that space...... If I did have any "complaint" with the Onyx (and other brands) its the footprint a singl unit gives as compared to the same footprint from an "equivalent" size HPS.....
You know there are other factors that are probably contributing to the results you're seeing that have nothing to do with lighting. For example you yourself are gaining knowledge and improving your skills with each and every grow. How the hell you factor that in I've no clue but it's something to consider before you give all the credit to lighting. Something as simple as changing when and how you trim / top the plants alone can yield significant improvements in bud quality. No doubt the lights are working well but I wouldn't be so quick to give all the credit to them.....
Maybe I should phrase it as I am not seeing any DECREASE in overall growth/size/health/etc after switching to LED. I am seeing a DECREASE in my electric bill however
there will be 17 units to cover 9x18. Gave myself a 1 foot space around the room to walk. The top 3 reasons for a successful profit on a grow is 1. grower talent 2. genetics 3. co2 . The only three things that will guaranty better success. LED's just help reduce energy consumed to utilize the top three. I always try to tell people to understand that the ONYX will not guarantee bigger or smaller plants. Just the opportunity to make some problems go away without sacrificing PAR i.e. expense, heat, humidity. I have seen the 2lbs per 1000hps and Ive seen 2lbs done with a 600hps (CONSISTENTLY not1 time run).Lower bills just make it easier to acheive a profit. But ANY lighting source LED, HPS, PLASMA cannot overcome a bad grower.
I have to agree completely. When I expanded it was with the intent to expand my hobby into a small home business. I am tracking costs for everything from dirt to electricity now and paying for everything from an account that is fed from the profits. The move away from conventional lighting to LED was NOT to increase yield or bud density - I can achieve that just by being a good grower. The move to LED was a cost move - I can now run more lighting at the same costs than I was using HPS. I have to say that comparing costs to lumens - The ONYX are the best deal (of the quality LED vendors) out there right now. Personally, I am happy with the units themselves, the service from RapidLED and my results.
Figured I'd post this here. Greengenes got his yeilds for the Apache AT600 vs 1000W hortilux in the solis tek ballast. Interested to see what the lab results show, if anything... but kinda makes me think the apache may not be as efficient as the A51 and Onyx. I don't know I think if I had double my setup which would be able the same wattage I think the A51 would win. Want to see what kind of numbers DXE is pulling with his onyx too, or at least how it compares to the 1k weights before. The bins of LEDs used in the A51 and Onyx lights are known and damn good. It's been debated what the apache tech uses because all that was known is that they are nichias. And for those lost on bin, that is kind of like the level the higher the bin the better the diode. Kind of like how you have different trim levels on a car, you can get the base model or the one that really performs and has it all. Here is the whole thread if you want to browse through. [YOUTUBE]YD8b_xkNc-o#t=408[/YOUTUBE]
Nifty, thanks! I'm about to make the switch to LEDs in a pretty big way. Loving all the info about them on GK these days.
Prosourceworldwide.com. I'm using their 180w jumbo UFO model. They were the only ones I could find that had a commercial grower allied with them. Their grower just let me come down to Denver, tour one of his warehouses, and pick his brain on the difference between LEDs and HPS. First time I'd seen an LED grow with my own two eyes where I was satisfied with the results. Once we're built in I want to run a chunk of table under the Cree diodes but I'm kinda just picking one I know will work for licensing and permitting purposes and can switch up later.
Looking at the prosource units I have pause.... First, I am not sold on multi color units - in my mind you are getting less total lumens in the footprint for any given light frequency. A one color fixture gives consistent lumen production throughout the footprint. Lumens ARE important - not like prosource says in their info. I would love to see a spectral graph of their output. Also - I really dont see how they can get that footprint from a round fixture and have consistent light (LUMEN) readings through-out the footprint. A good vendor would share the kind of spectral information as seen in the ONYX link below http://www.onyxgrow.com/bloom.html
I agree multi color panels are something that I believe will begin to phase out. I know if I were in the lef manufacturing game and was trying to delivery a quality product and be competitive white or red and white is the way to go. And honestly I think it will either go one or two ways, either transition into all whites, or what I really see happening is the use of white like a base lighting and maybe supplement other pinpoint regions. But here is why multi color exists. Early on whites were expensive and inefficient which made the idea of LED pointless. To maximize the efficiency of the lamp and energy consumption the first panels were dual or 4 band with reds and blues. Since whites are inefficient but reds and blues are efficient and chlorophyll likes red and blue light, that pin pointing those wavelengths should fuel photosynthesis. Sounds good, makes sense. But there are other players like xanthrophylls, carotinoids and such. So then people started adding orange. Next you start seeing people adding UV and IR, which are really deep or far blue and far red. Then whites gett the mix in. And so forth. Today you can get a panel with single monochromes of a color, or you can get up to around 14-16 bands of color. Something like blackdog/mars II, or Kind and their proprietary multicolor spectrums. Really all they did was blend. Like a rum or whiskey blender, who takes all the barrels and adds them in ratios to get the right end product. They used all these different colors to fill in the voids white light already has to start with. The white and the reds is just a way of blending and kind of cheating the system. By using white and red diodes that can make a more "warmer" light with higher outputs than the current whites alone. So can use a more efficient white and supplement the red to make it more in the 2700-3000K area. Example of that would be my all white XGS vs the RW. The RW pulls about 40 watts less than the XGS but does just as good of a job. Though that is one way whites are still getting better and the COB style whites will probably become more popular in manufactured units. Or at least I would think do to their abilities as a light source and the ease of construction compared to the units now. They don't even require MCPCB boards.
