Love the curtain, cant wait till i get the cycle going. I pushed the next one back so i can get the electric up for led lighting, fans, dehumidifiers, air conditioner for dry room, air conditioner and heater for water tank and nutrient shed, and all the water pumps. In the future i will have the next round ready to go to flower as soon as i harvest. Yes smelly, this is the strongest smelling i have grown. I think the advanced nutes is why.
Hey greenjah, Where did you get your green house? I'm looking for one myself. So far I got a quote from emerald kingdom for a 20x40 straight walled hoop house is $3200, the light dep kit is another $3k plus $500 shipping Can you share the particulars on what you got and where from? Great job :cheers: Happy Growin'
My big one is a paul borers, hurculon. Spelling may differ. Lol. With 3 bays and motorized roof vents it was 70 k Not sure what they would be without roof vents. The original farm they were mostly used, i had one new one i bought from the greenhouse supply place by me, i dont know a brand. It was 30x48 with 4 or 5 foot straight side walls then a peak at 14 ft instead of hoops, it was 10k with manual roll up walls and plastic included. I thought it was a bit much but im guessing its cause its peaked so it has more beef to the frame, i think its called a gothic style. Anyway it sounds like a good price u got, im guessing that is a exterior light dep? Mine is vre, the top and each side have a 3 phase servo motor and a 3 phase converter, the top big motor i can expand with, i just extend the cable drive shaft if i want to add other bays on, it runs on 220 and the sides are each there own motor and run on 110. If i expand the top i just add a side wall or move the ones i got if i dont need different light cycles in different bays. Bottom line is it sounds like a good price to me.
I know im past due for an update, ive been workin like crazy with all the changes. I finally got the electric work done and approved, the electric company is coming friday to tell me what they gotta do, i already know i need power brought across the road and a 320 amp transformer put up then its about 350 ft to the riser for the meter. Im not looking forward to hear what they want me to pay to do it. I have to pay it all up front so if its to much i wont be able to do it till after another harvest. Problem is i am only able to run 6 400 watt Mh lights with the heaters on the temp power so if im forced to flower before i get real power then only 6 plants out of 48 will get more then the 6 to 8 hours of crappy light we get here in the winter. I will try to get some pics up soon, once im not so busy.
The light dep kit is external, only one motor. I'm worried though cause we get rediculous winds here sometimes for days at a time gusting to 40-60mph Kinda just thinking I should just go for the greenhouse and if it doesn't rip the sheeting off, then invest in the light dep kit at a later time, but then I'm stuck to flowering indoors till next summer...which isn't terrible either
Been a while, been busy busy. I flipped to flower a week ago, im a month late because i had to make some cash so i could buy a bunch of lights, the day light hours were just getting to short to do good without them. I have been running advanced conasure at full strength for a few months now. I was doing once a week fertalizer till run through and a few gal plain water if they dried out between. I wasnt happy with how long it was taking to dry out, especially the smaller ones. They were not even dry or barely dry in a week when it was fertalizer day again. So i decided i would do feed, watet, feed, water. They are somewhere around 25 to 30 gal smart pots. I cut 45 gal short to make a wider pot without needing 45 gal. I feed 4 gal and water is only 2.5 so it wets the whole medium on feed and then the in between water just wets the top half since it dries and the bottom is still wet. I figure every 3rd feed i will do plain water to runthrough then do 5 gal feed on top of the water. Today was my first runthrough day and the runoff was 3000 to over 3500 ppm but the ph of the soil before the flush and the runoff water was between 5.7 and 5.9 wich with ph perfect is exactly what i put it in at. So with the one i did today to test it is the larger one in the pics and it took 10 gal just to get decent runoff and 25 gal to get the runoff to around 800 then gave it 5 gal of food. I know lots of people say full strength is to much but ive been feeding them that for a while with no problems. Infact there still is no problem but i am thinking that if i dont do this full 25 gal flush to all of them that there will be soon. I wouldnt mind some second opinions on if im doing the right thing. I will continue to do the flush every third feeding by giving water to runoff, check runoff and if it is over 1200 i will continue plain water till it is under 1000 and then do the feeding. Another thing i am wondering though is if there is nute/salt build up why did the ph not drop. They have been getting a few yellow dieing leaves here and there as if they want more food but i expected the runoff to be low ppms if that is true. Am i right about the runoff ppm? I googled a few things and lots of people say dont pay attention to the ppm in runoff but to me and i think ive read it on here before that runoff ppms reflect on buildup of nutes. I meant to take more picks but forgot. I will post more soon. These are just pics of each size plant so me explaining how many gallons i give makes sense. The trellises are 6 ft tall 4 ft square. There is 40 plants and only 5 r 6 of them r the small size.
Why do my posts seem to get knocked off, its not even on the new posts list. Anyway im bumpin it back on. Would like an opinion if anyone agrees or disagrees. Im going to start the rest of the plants in a couple hours.
Runoff doesn't mean squat, there are too many variables in it to use it for anything other than notifications of extremes They look healthy to me, I don't see any yellowing leaves, aside from the new growth which can be that way regardless. Do you have pictures of other yellowing leaves? If the issue is one here or there on a plant that size I'd call it a fluke Regarding watering, you'll want to decrease the amount of water fed At a time...if the bottom middle is saturated all the time you may loose to root problems Good job
On second thought, they really do look terrible...ill head over with a trailer and take them away so you can start over
I was also afraid of root issues with the few that never really dried out, the way i do it now i let it go till the top is 100% dry till i water/feed, it is only because of the pot size that i give 4 gal feed and 2.5 of water, the bigger pots will still have moisture lower down the first time it dries after a 4 gal feed. I miss the days of 5 gal pots, i just lift it and know if it needs water. The yellow leaves are the very inner bottom ones, not a lot but just a little more then i like on a few strains. The yellowing is another reason i switched my water/ feed style. Before with once a week runthrough feeding im guessing about 6 gal of nutrients stayed in. This way with 2 feedings a week on average at 4 gal they dry out more and get 8 gal of food instead of 6. They do look healthy but i have never burned a plant before and dont know how fast it happens, i dont want to fry my plants over night after feeding them because of buildup. I did flush quite a few of them today down to 800 or less ppm and then 5 gal of food. Next will be water and i will add in recharge. What do i look for for first sign of buildup? Will it look like nutrient burn with the brown tips or will it just start frying leaves?
Buildup can look like a cross between nute burn and ph issues and everything in between. It generally starts with curling leaves or burned tips or mottled leaves. But it will be more than just a few leaves I'd just mist the surface a few times a day with a garden wand, and still reduce the total water at each straight water feeding, dry soil is dead soil. I'd say this is evidence that you need to mix your soil with more drainage amendments eg sand or perlite, and transplant to intermediate pot sizes between what you started with and the big ones.mit may be that the inner most soil,is not very populated with root mass because it's too wet It'll take time for 4 gallons of water to soak in, are you doing this via drip or just pouring it in?
I got a hose with a garden head on the end, it soaks right in. Wit 4 gal it only takes 2 to 3 days to dry out and the plain water it only takes 1 to 2 days to dry. I have wondered before how dry to let it get. I hear so many things, it is one of the reasons for the lighter watering in between, i figure if i wait till the bottom is dry after the 4 gal feed then the top will have been bone dry for 24 to 48 hours and it would be bad for sure. Sounds like were on the same page, thank you for the response and reassurence. I have seen the very tip of some leaves twisting, no burning though. I may have been just in time. Would you say that it is a good thing to flush out the promix a couple times through a 5 to 6 month grow just to be safe?
What I was saying about the garden hose, you don't want it to soak, just mist it to keep it moist, and churn up the topsoil to keep things from growing. Re how dry is too dry: SubA- soil that is too dry is devoid of lifelike qualities, creates dust when swept, leaves no moisture on your hand and feels gritty, and unhappy A- Dry soil that is ready to be watered is about as dry as a fresh loaf of bread, it leaves no moisture on your hand but feels moist alive and happy. B- Just right soil, say 20-30 minutes after watering should leave your hand surface moist but not pool water when you squeeze a handful. C- soil is too wet if you grab a handful and can squeeze water out of it. Squeeze and make a fist, if it pools in the top of your hand it's too wet. You should still feed the same amount, just spread it out...eg if you feed every 4 days with 4 gallons and water in between because it's getting too dry...water 1.25 gallon every morning either via drip or 1/2 gallon wait 5-10 minutes and another half gallon...not a solution just an example, this is the part that depends on what you got plantwise, environmentwise, and all that jazz Effect of too dry soil: the moisture needs to be there to keep the salts and sugars in solution and keep the microorganisms from going dormant or dying. If it gets too dry (creates dust when swept is beyond too dry) You end up with pockets of soil at various ph and nutrient content which causes various spots of the plant to show deficiencies and other areas to show toxicities. Regarding flushing, it is best to maintain a happy root space throughout the grow. If the roots space is happy there's no need to flush except when using chemical nutes during transition periods, and final flush of course regardless. Flushing typically postpones your next feeding which during flower will work against your goals, unless you have a problem, let her eat eat eat It looks and sounds to me that you have your nutes adjusted proper, if anything needs to be adjusted its your feeding/watering timing, and soil mix on the next go round...if it were me, next go round I'd try n put a half gallon of sand and a gallon of perlite in addition to whatever you put in before. This will allow you to feed less fluid, more often. Also misting and disturbing the top soil enough to keep the top from drying out. Judging by your setup I'm Guessing you are doing this full time?
They do seem to look a little perkier today, and it is the transition so it worked out for me to do it anyway. I will probly do the same on the next round but just before flower not after the flip. I remembered an important thing when you mentioned the environment. I do deal with high humidity, im pretty sure my larger plants are properly sized for the pots to water runthrough if i had 55% r so. Right now im at 65 as a low, 70 as usual and probly 85 for a half a day r so after watering to runoff or spraying. Sounds like i let the top of my soil get to dry, the top is always completely dry before feed or water and even the middle if i can squeeze water out of it when i squeeze it as hard as i can between two fingers then its to wet to water. Ive always been afraid of root rot and feel it gets more oxygen when its drier. How long would you think ferts with bio fungus and bacteria will last at 68°, i have been trying to avoid mixing new nutrients every day, thats why i started with a once a week feeding soak but as i found out easier doesnt usually work. One thing ive never tested either though is how far a gallon goes down in my pots, if a gal and a half only goes down 6 in and i spread my waterings then the bottom of the pot never gets used, ive had people say they just water a little every day and i always wondered if the bottom of the pots ever get wet.
People spend a great deal of effort trying to get the right soil mix, one reason hydro is popular. Trichoderma is supposedly really good at preventing root rot. Once a week generally doesn't work out, gotta tweak it to get it right for your mix, your environment and your plants This is why watering by weight works so well. But can't do that with the size of your plants. If you want to test this I'd set up a test pot, mix up the same soil and see what happens when you water it like you have been put a to,atop in it or something you can dig up in a week or two or a month without caring about it too much Really though these things your are looking at are not answerable really without a couple runs with your stuff. Your plants look happy, I'd roll on with what you're doing and just plan to make changes next go round. Also you do not want to flush before the switch, you'll end up lacking nitrogen and dump leaves. I flush 2 weeks after switching to 12's but that's just how I roll. Seems the ladies like a bit of nitro while they're figuring out their new digs. But that is totally dependent on the plant, I've had some that didn't like this at all. That's where time and perseverance come in. Happy Growin'
Well i made it to around 3 weeks and im pretty sure i got calcium deficiency, i gave it a feed with calmag and without rhino skin (silica). It has continued to get worse so a gave them another dose of calmag with plain water yesterday. It has gotten to the point of killing a couple of the few fan leaves i left at the tops. Here is a couple pictures the when i first noticed it i didnt take a pic, it showed at the tops first and there 8 ft up so i didnt see it at first signs. a week later are these pics and i dont have a current one but the leaves curled up dead, dry, brown.
It could be a potassium deficiency also. Cal mag deficiencies and potassium deficiencies look almost identical.
