If you want to do it simple i would let the leaves dry grind them up good, stick them in a jar and add some 90 or atleast 70% isopropyl alcohol, enough to cover the plant matter and it be a little liquidy stir that shit around and let it set for like 2-3 minutes. Use some cheese cloth of a coffee filter and filter that crap out on to a plate you could scrap from, then either let it set and evaporate naturally or you can get a pot of water and start boiling it and just put the plate over the boiling water, once the alcohol has evaporated you can just scrap that crap up with a razor and there ya go.
Do not grind it read this there are many variations it is a little wordy. I usually start w/ frozen plant matter To start, the bud should be gently broken into individual components (leaves/resin sacks/stems). Do not use scissors or a coffee grinder to do this, as this will break the cell walls in the pot plant and release chlorophyll faster. Chlorophyll is the green coloring in all plants; it is what they use to get energy from the sun. It tastes bad and gives you a headache when you smoke it. Use your hands to gently pull the pot apart. Make sure all sources of ignition are gone! Pilot lights, candles, engines, joints, cigarettes, and hot coals can all be dangerous during this phase! Place the broken up pot into the jar. Add iso to it till it just covers the pot, try to use as little as possible. Swish/shake gently around for only a 10-20 seconds, if you do it too long the chlorophyll will be released (it is also alcohol soluble but releases slower). Holding the pot in with something (A screen maybe? NOT ALUMINUM!!!!) pour the alcohol out into another clean container. through a metal kitchen strainer Observe the color, it should be a golden yellow, very clear with possibly a few little green plant bits floating in it. Continue repeating the above process until the alcohol is either clear or green, collecting all the yellow iso together. (You want to stop as soon as you see green iso, it really affects the potency and taste. Clear iso just means more to cook off and waste.) Wash the bowl with a small amount of isopropanol. Pour the contents of the filtered container back into the bowl; it is now time to evaporate the iso. This is where is get really dangerous if you mess around! Make certain that there are no sources of ignition! Do this outside if possible (if not make sure you are in a well ventilated environment). Also, wear gloves or oven mitts if you fear being burned a bit by the rising steam you will encounter. Place a pan of hot tap water on the stove (not gas stove!!) set on "low". Place the bowl with the solution onto the water. You will notice the alcohol evaporates fast, and a cloud of vapors should form over it, gently blow the vapors towards a window or ventilation fan occasionally. Try not to inhale these fumes, they can make you dizzy, or even pass out. If the iso ever begins boiling, take the bowl off of the water for a while, and turn the stove down, if possible. You will yield more oil if you use a smooth surface, the evenly curved "side" of the bowl (the part that isn't the bottom) is best, so angle the bowl if possible, even propping it up (carefully, and well, so it wont fall, and also observing that you don't tilt it too much, as water may get in!). Using the side of the bowl near the beginning of the cooking process is less necessary, as there is more iso, which will hold the THC until you cook some iso off. Once you start to notice a film being left behind, it is best to quickly switch to the side of the bowl. (If you happen to have a stainless steel DOME, u need not worry about nasty edges that are hard to get at with a card). Eventually most of the alcohol will waft away, leaving a small puddle, with a thin oil film around it.The puddle still has iso left in it, while the film is probably a bit caramelized, or hardened (experience and practice will teach you to move the bowl around occasionally to wet down the dry parts, and thin out the puddle in the middle, but be careful not to spread the iso/oil too far, as it will be harder to harvest later). While the bowl is still warm, rotate it to move the small puddle to the outer regions of where the oil has collected, weting it, but not spreading it further, as described above in brackets. Once the puddle is spread out a bit and cooled for a few seconds, it will become less liquidy, and stick to a larger area on the bowl: dip it in the hot water briefly, blowing gently as you do so. You should see very distinct rippling patterns from the iso evaporating (not wind ripples from breath). The former puddle that you dispersed into a larger surface area will re-liquefy and puddle again, repeat until ripples stop completely, signifying that their is (hopefully) no iso left. Actually tasting a small blob is a good way to tell if it is iso-free: pure honey oil has almost no taste, kind of like vegetable oil, but will eventually make your tongue tingle. Iso is bitter and has a bite similar to hard alcohol, but much harsher and stronger. (If you're not sure, but think it's clean, touch the lip of the iso bottle then your tongue... did the oil taste like that at all? if not it's safe). To collect the film of oil, I (whoever "I" is) use the shortest end of a credit/bank card. starting on the outside edge somewhere, keep the card still and spin the bowl, gradually working your way inward like a zamboni, scraping it all into a blob in the middle, then tilt the bowl so the oil dumps onto the card. VOILA!! with practice it will pass for real honey!!
that clears up a lot of things right there.....thanx rtyree.... even after I read the sticky "honey oil 101" there is still confusion...(for me anyways) but this clears that up
