I'm planting in pro mix this is considered a soilless medium correct? If so then ph should be what 5.8? Using general organics nutrient line. I'm in week 4 and my plants are looking yellow. Mainly in the middle of the plant. Some leaves have yellowed and have brown spots. Currently I have been watering and feeding at a ph of6 should I raise it or lower it? Thanks
guidoman ~ you serious? Pro Mix soil is well... soil. what pro mix are you using? You should not only know what your soil pH was when you started but there are amendments such as dolomite lime that should be added to the soil to buffer your pH. Cannabis will grow in almost any soil*, but it flourishes when the pH is between 6.5 and 7. Commercial potting soil almost never has a pH above 7.5. A lower pH is more common, even as low as 5.5. Some potting soils purchased at a nursery are pH balanced and near a neutral 7. However, most potting soils have a tendency to be acidic. The easiest way to stabilize soil pH is to mix in one cup of fine dolomite lime per cubic foot of potting soil. Your pH is way low and your plants are locking up no longer absorbing the nutrients you see outside the 6.5-7.0 range. What you need to do is flush the HELL out of your plants with pH adjusted water and stop feeding as it's doing you more harm than good. Good luck and read the FAQ on how to flush them right. ~ bLITz
pro mix is a humus an peat product no? so its considered a soiless mix... but you pH should be 6.5 for soil/soilless mixes. you definately need to flush your ladies with pH'd water to 6.5 and a volume of 2.5x their pot size... let them drain for a couple days the resume a light feeding schedule biulding up to full strength... always pH adjust your nutrient solution to 6.5... I have used the GO line and found the plants had many deficiencies especially in late vg into flowr... good luc and post up some pics
Thanks fellas I have always thought pro mix wasn't soil since it has no nutrients in it but I wasn't sure about the ph because in the plant sickness and def link that is posted in the sisick plant section I thought the soilless ph was lower like the hydro I will raise it tomorrow. So in your opinion the GO line is insufficient? In what ways? I just started the GO line this batch so I'm open to any suggestions
well reguarding the GO line i found my plants were very def in Ca/Mg and their Ca/Mg supplement didnt seem to help... the other thing i noticed is how much you have to use especially the bio root and Ca/Mg... now this is just my exp with it and I by no means am an experienced grower... I do know one other person had very similar issues to mine... he is an exceptional grower... I will say watch your soil ph seeing the pro mix has no buffering at all... also i noticed their feeding charts ppms are very strange... if i remember correctly their seedling and clone feeding was like 700 ppm... if im not mistaken you wat it like 300 pmm for that stage of growth... anyways god lucka nd keep us posted with pics... we like pics
As do I Pics are hard since I'm restricted to my IPod for the moment will search out cable tomorrow Finished flushing two batches one is in week five and has spots on the yellowing leaves. The other in week two and not as severe, but is showing signs we will see. Tomorrow will flushthe moms and clones. The differenc here is I'm using the last of the canna bio vega mixed with the rhizotonic
I read a High Times article about a Northern Cali LEGEND they called The Wizard of Buzz and he only uses the Canna Bio line of foods because they are 1-part sytems and they contain no animal products and the pH is right on... According to the wizard no pH adjusting is required with the Canna line and it was something about it having vinasse to maintain the proper pH not leaving behind any unwanted chemical residue as well. He also used Thrive Alive as an organic B-vitamin supplement along with Barricade + Foliar Feeding with Humboldt Mayan Micorzime... Stick with the Canna Bio Line (Vega&Flora) and look into the other products the Wizard uses. Seemed to be doing the sea of Grape Ape colas right in the articles photos. Do your homework on Micro Life in your soil and how they feed your plants. Chemical ANYTHING like pH Up and Down will kill off the micro life in your soil which is the real key to success with true organics.
http://www.growkind.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=42797&cat=500&ppuser=18502 http://www.growkind.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=42796&cat=500&ppuser=18502 http://www.growkind.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=42795&cat=500&ppuser=18502 http://www.growkind.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=42794&cat=500&ppuser=18502 found the cable these are some of a few of the plants as i said before i have flushed everything we will see what happens
Jumping in here with a question because it may be relevant to the OP....when you are growing in soil, what specific product do you use to test your soils PH??? I ask because I had a cheap tester that you stuck in the soil and that thing was way off all the time. Do you just measure the ph of the nutrient solution and assume the PH of the soil or do you actually test the soil and with what???
Unless you're using a $400 soil probe from Hanna throw it away. It's useless. Sucks but that's the truth. The way to keep correct soil ph is by using the correct mix in the first place and then using only phed solutions while growing. Anything else is simply treating a symptom. Testing run off with a decent ph pen ($40-$70) or litmus paper can give you an idea of the active ph in your soil.
Rez... plz share with us your widom on how to get the right mix. Hempy is great and I have had a lot of fun with this grow but to be honest my heart is in Organics and it kills me I could never get it right. pH was a disater for me. Bottom line. 10 grows easy and most of my results were no leaves left on my plants from lockout by week 4/day 21-28 of flowering ~ horrible yields. I have both Ocean forest and Light warrior. What can I do with them to get that sweet ass mix you are talking about? Here is the Subcool Super Soil mix: He said cut OF w/LW at 2-1 you get a workable base but recomends Harvest Moon a soil I have never seen locally. The problem is this recipe is huge and I have done the math broke it down to 1/8 the recipe here and used it and had horrible results. Was some Super Lemon Haze and well did not end so super at all. 8 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil) 25 to 50 lbs of organic worm castings 5 lbs steamed bone meal 5 lbs Bloom bat guano 5 lbs blood meal 3 lbs rock phosphate ¾ cup Epson salts ½ cup sweet lime (dolomite) ½ cup azomite (trace elements) 2 tbsp powdered humic acid I have stayed true to this exact recipe with the addition of kelp meal and WITHOUT azomite as I could not find that shit anywhere... I think Lime is the problem for me and I think it's the type/brand I use? Is this the same as Dolomite Lime and could the fact that it's pellets and not powder be a problem? What is the secret to starting with the right pH?? How do you feed later without having to adjust your pH chemically? Would the TGA Subcool Super Soil mix truly get you through a "just add water" grow?
Oh shit.....ok....lessee here. There's an easy soil mix I posted awhile back that with a little variation for strain has worked well for me. http://www.growkind.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41271&highlight=easy+organic+soil The intent is to start with a base that's ph neutral and build on that. "Promix for Potting" (Specifically) and Sunshine #2 or #4 gives a perfect starting PH of 5.5-7 that we MJ growers are looking for. Link to the Promix to use---http://www.premierhort.com/eProMix/Gardening/Products/GrowingMediaTM/ProMixValue/Potting/fPotting.htm Now this is just my opinion and anybody can disagree or post up their perspective....but the problem using Light Warrior and Ocean Forest mix then adding in your amendments is that both those quality soil mixes are already fortified so getting an accurate amended mix and understanding how everything balances is damn near impossible. Then if you do find the correct amendment ratios FoxFarms could alter their base and leave you back at square one. First blush going over the recipe you posted (besides amounts more inline with a good sized outdoor op) is that there are three sources of N on top of FoxFarm's bat guano, earth worm castings and emulsions and almost all are fairly concentrated sources with high representation. Pick one or two and live with it. Simplicity. It's easier to understand later issues if the components of the mix are less complex. The Lime needs to be raised and yes, powdered is a necessity. Pellets don't distribute effectively or act quickly enough to be of use for indoor gardening. IMHO, if in doubt toss in another handful of Lime. I've yet to find a store bought mix that contains adequate lime. The Mg is light also and could be effecting the later growth stages. There is Mg present in garden lime but not enough to carry through a grow. 1 cup Epsom Salt per 4 cubic feet of mix and 3 cups of lime is a good baseline to start. Remember, your Mg, lime and bone meal all need to balance since the latter two are your sources of Ca. Also, by using Bone Meal as your major source of Ca and by going light on the lime in the mix you posted you're foregoing the PH buffering ability of the lime. Huge Phos influence...kind of surprised. In the mix I posted, and use, Fish/kelp emulsions are used to add micro-elements and fully chelated nutes that are available more quickly than the dry elements. Also, not reflected in the recipe I posted is molasses. Yes....Res is on about molasses again. In each 4 cubic foot mix I'll add 1 cup of molasses. This gives a wonderful mix of elements, potassium and a little phos while upping the carb/simple sugars available to colonize the soil microbes more quickly. That be it. Sounds involved but it's easy peasy. Ran a cost analysis for Rky awhile back and I think 4 cu/ft of Promix fully amended costs me like $26. Cheap when compared to OF running $30+ for 3 cu/ft. Being a small gardener I mix 1/2 batches in a garbage can or waste tub, takes about fifteen minutes. It gets used for everything in my garden...cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, spices, my lilies....everything. Not saying the recipe you posted doesn't work. Wouldn't know unless I tried it, but the ratios just don't look right to me. The guy to really ask is Joe Gardener (Randy High in another life). His organic game is much more developed than mine with a deeper understanding of how it all comes together. Shit dude...you made my head hurt. PS...earth worm castings are never a bad thing to add. Like organic fish/seaweed emulsions, it's damn near impossible to burn using them. For Mycc RTI is cheap ($15 a pound vs 8oz of Great White at $60) and the best there is with an unfortified base and spore counts higher than 3000 per 50ml.
:not-worthy: kick ass! thanks Rez... do you mix the strait molasses into the soil? I have to see if a local place by me has those Sunshine mixes and the RIGHT lime.
That's the deal. Pour it right in an stir the living crap out of the whole works. Keep some cal/mag on hand. It's not at all unusual for some strains to show a Mg/Ca deficiency right around that crucial 2nd-4th week of flowering. In the last garden the Mandala Safari and SkunkxHaze both loved the mix. The BR struggled with Mg/Ca problems in flowering that lessened in the next cycle after upping the mix Mg by 25%. If I'd run it a third time I would have upped the Bone meal some also.
