OK folks--here we go-- I mixed scotts pro gro and a ratio of 1/3 perculite and 1/3 verculite. Added full cup bone and blood meal. next time i will go 1/2 cup i guess. Been using 20-20-20 incorrectly. I had it at 1/2 strength, but i watered with it every 3rd time-not every 3rd week. DUHHHH My soil ph is 7.0=neutral- and my current 20/20/20/ mix is 5.5 to 6.0- being colored blind doesnt help but i am fairly sure it about right-damn color charts but i read so many figures about PH levels- some say 5.5 to 7-so i will take 6.0-6.5. But how do i get there from here-flushing won't help due to the mix i dont believe-and i had to transplant already once due to blood meal over dose- i caught it early and saved the plant. Don't want to transplant again unless i have to-plants are 5 weeks and over 5 in tall. epsom salt good epsom salt bad-to many conflicts of opinion. I can't find lyme in this area- and most all threads talk about hydro fixing. SO how screwed am I
Test the PH of your water then if it is around nuetral 7.0 give your pots a flush. It should raise the PH up a few points. Anywhere from 6.2-6.8 should be fine although ive read that 6.4-6.8 is optimal. Many people tht mix in organic ingredients into thier mix end up having problems. I dont do this and fert with organic liquids. I find it easier this way due to the fact that all plants are different and require different doses. I wouldnt say that your fucked but if you cannot get your PH back to normal your going to have nutrient lockout problems.
id say that its The combination of all of them. Too much ferts. If you wouldnt of added any 20-20-20 then the soil mix wouldve probably been fine. Enough nutrient to keep your plant healthy for a month or two without adding extra fert. (Edited by rastadub at 12:15 am on Nov. 20, 2002)
Calcium is a ph up. Crack two eggs per plant, wash out the shell and microwave them untill hot (only a few seconds); This will dry them out. Put them in a blender, and you now have powdered calcium. Sprinkle the calcium over the soil and flush your plants 3 times and check the PH in the morning. The calcium will have brought it up. Everytime you pour water over the shells, some of the calcium is taken down into the soil. You need to leave them about 12 hrs to get a true ph reading. Repeat the technique untill the ph is as you want. I personally would aim for a 6.4.
Nice post CW I knew there was some easy PH adjuster but i just diidnt know what. Couldnt you just use calcium pills in water then just check the PH of the water before flushing?
Ha i just notice CW posted a PH recipe lol. Use the superthrive in the flush it will help relieve stress on the roots. Randy i thought you said the PH of your mix was 5.5-6.0 Now iam confused
yes to 20 20 20 mix- one gallon of water. It is right on the mark. its the organic mix thats 7 silly rabbit. Trix is for kids J/K
Rasta I believe his soil is at 7.0, and his fert mixture is 5.5-6.0....First Randy the info Rasta and CW have given you is right on the money. I am seeing a common problem here. it is my understanding that when you mix a soil with all the goodies that you DON'T need to add extra ferts with the waterings. That is the whole reason for adding nutes to the soil. Do one or the other. Personally I have been down the road of despair when it comes to soil and ferts. If you want an easy grow then go with a good base potting soil mixed with perlite. Then get some good organic ferts and use them with each watering. I use Metanaturals myself because it contains Mg., but others have used different organics with similar results. I fought with my grow up until the day I made the change. Now I have no worries. No soil to try and get right, no wondering if I forgot to fert this week, and sweet tasting buds. My advice for any freshman is to wait until you gain experience before you tackle soil mixes. I don't have that experience myself just yet so I make do with what is easy.
well the reason why i am having trouble-to many different stories. One person said use 20/20/20 every three days, then i get every third watering, ever three weeks. But i got a handle on it now. I think i am pretty close. Now i am going to flush,get the ph down a step and 1/2. use plainwater and superthirve when needed. And maybe every 3 weeks, once with 20/20/20 if people say thats good. Thanks all for your help. Keep my crutches handy (Edited by RandyJ at 12:33 am on Nov. 20, 2002)
If you are going with the 20-20-20 then you want to use it every third watering. That is the rule of thumb. Also let the pots dry out well between waterings. That will make a huge difference in your plant's health. They like drier soil over moist soil. I promise you that.
Herb but i have to disagree with you for once . 20-20-20 is stong stuff and it should be used only once every three weeks. Since randy has a very light and airy soil he may water every three days. Using 20-20-20 every third watering would be every 9 days. That would be tragic for sure
I won't argue that. That's what I get for trying to give advice on Chems.... I was relaying what I have heard time and again from others. The one question I do have though. If the plant is recieving three waterings regardless of time in between. What is the difference? The way it was explained to me by a gentleman at my local horticulture shop is that with a high ratio fert you give the plant one large dose that is leached out with the next two waterings. The more times you water between doses will dilute the ferts further and may deprive them of needed nutes. This is why I went organic. To much crap to fool with in my book. They get fed a low dose everytime I water and they love it.... (Edited by Herbsparky at 1:48 am on Nov. 20, 2002)
Yes i do agree with you on tha Herb Organics just about every watering is easier I do think that if 20-20-20 was applied every third watering the 2 watering in between would take out some of the ferts but the rest that was left would eventually build up. Either way since Randy already added bone meals every three weeks would be the better choice i think.
well that make sense. Since the 202020 solution was less than 1/2 strength, I think thats why the level is only 7.If it had been full strength, i bet the level would had been off the scale. But i am learning and thats good.
Randy there's nothing wrong with a PH of 7,that means the soil is neutral.lower than 7 is acidic and higher than 7 is alkaline.Usually your soil will become acidic as you add ferts....not right off the bat but usually over time that's when you use lime or calcium to bring it back up to a respectable level.Personally i add 1/2 cup of dolomite lime when i mix my soil and don't have to worry about it after that.Are your plants showing trouble?