I have a questions about flushing the plants during early flowering. #1 My tap is at a ph of 7.0. Is it ok to flush them without adjusting the ph? Honestly last flush I didnt bother adjusting but i did check the runoff and it was around 5.5 and I saw somewhere your runnoff should be around 1 point lower then what you put in. When I feed them the ph is always adjusted to 6.5 and they seem fine. #2 Should I add anything to the flush? I have been just using straight tap water left out overnight to evap any chlorine and junk but thats about it. Thanks for any feedback. asssit:
What's the grow medium? I grow hempy and only flush a couple time through out the grow. Then a finial flush at the end. I do always adjust to the ph range. Peace.....
I think it has a lot to do with why you're flushing in the first place. I see no reason to pH the final flush. Adjusting your water will just add salts to your media. If you're flushing in the transition between veg and flower, then I say yea, pH your water. If you're flushing because of an over fert / toxicity issue, then I don't think it would matter as you're trying to push ferts and salts out of the media. But then again, you run a possibility of screwing up the media's pH. So, in this instance, I say hydro - no, soil - yes, coco -yes, but never flush coco with plain water except final flush.
Im growing in Fox Farm Ocean Forest. I thought I was supposed to flush about every third or forth feeding to prevent salt build up or somthing like that. asssit:
Ok I think I got it now I mixed up flushing with watering...So every third time I water with ph'd water. Don't add molasses or peroxide or anything? asssit:
Honestly, I can't give you completely accurate advise on this one, I've been a strictly coco grower for like 3 years. I started out in soil, but never got it dialed. I don't see why molasses would hurt, but I think H2O2 would screw up any type of beneficial bacteria FFOF comes with.
Of course you don't need to pH a final flush. A lock-out wouldn't accur (sic) instantly, anyway. You're just flushing-out shit anyho.
In soil, you flush by giving them straight water for the last 2-4 week, depending on nutrient level. Other then that, you shouldn't have to flush unless the soil is overdose. You can use molasses. I don't know when to use it, but I do know you use it in flower. I'm thinking about using it this year. I wouldn't use h2o2 unless you know what you are doing. Good Luck G_B
Molasses used in flower (each week in my gardens) helps chelate the remaining elements in the soil, adds P and K, Mg (which aids in using N uptake which is crucial since we are using low N ferts during flower) and contributes a host of micro elements. H2O2 in soil is used ONLY to correct root zone problems like pythium or unwanted root fungi. It kills beneficial bacteria, nitrobacters (for organic guys these oxidize nitrite into nitrate) and any mycorrhizae as well as the bad fungi or rot.
Thanks Res, I havent added any H202. Just the useless formula and the molasses so far. How much molasses per gallon do you use Res?
Yeah, flushing is different than watering. Took me awhile to get them both straight, even tho watering is a type of flushing. In soil I just watered without ph'ing. It worked for me. It's different in hydro since by the time a lookout shows itself, it's too late. Soil is a LOT more forgiving.
Why would you use H2O2 in soil? maybe I am misunderstanding, but you are using a soil mix that is organically based? h2o2 doesn't know good from bad bacteria, it kills everything. I would shy away from using that if i were you. also, check your water report...you may have chloramine instead of chlorine. to different chemicals either way soil is more forgiving than hydro for that, but bubble you water and check your local water. I'm just now seeing this, but I have checked our local water reports and chloramine is like 7-10 ppms...I honestly have on clue what effect this has except what I read...but I always don't have time to bubble, I'm interested if I notice a difference BTW, didn't see page two til after I repsonded...yea im repeating what they said because they are right
I'm going to chime in and throw a monkey wrench in the "don't use H2O2 in soil" comments. Bad bacteria are anaerobic. Good bacterias are aerobic. Why not give the goodies a boost of highly oxygenated water? And in return help kill the anaerobic bacteria which makes for a great food source for aerobic bacteria... This is something I never tested. I did read a paper on it, and it makes sense. I couldn't argue the logic. In the paper they compared a plot of grass that had H2O2 ( 35% @ 1-2 drops per gallon) added to the water against a plot that didn't. The Myco's and other beneficial aerobic bacteria were almost 10x higher in the plot with H2O2 than the one without. Food for thought. Maybe one of you organic dirt chuckers would be willing to test it and provide us with a side by side.
Are you throwing a gauntlet at my forehead? :redbong: I'll admit the bacteria/mycc is supposition but it's based on using H2O2 as a fungicide for veggie and weed gardens. Mycc is a fungi so it makes sense it would behave the same as an unwanted fungus. Bacteria, the way I understand it is the main differentiating factor in destruction by H202 is whether the bacteria produce catalase or not. So to verify as to whether they get destroyed or not one would need to know the protein production of the bacteria in question. Hmmmmmm.......got me pondering my long held beliefs again you fucker. So the research prior to a garden test would be; Is aerobic bacterium found in soils largely catalase protein producers?
