Yes it is the light dep, i think i can get better more consistent results growing them smaller. I can cut all the fluff out so i get bigger better top buds that go through the trimmer good. It also insulates, it is 2 black layers and a shiny layer. It sayed it should save 75% on night time heat. Ill be happy with 50%. It cost $10000 to heat the center bay this past winter and it was a very warm winter.
Sun baby! When my state goes legit you need to come down and set me up. One day before I die there'll be a greenhouse on the farm. My final bucket list item.
ha just kidding and jealous. Love the dog too. Gorgeous. Looks like a sled dog. Are you going for full darkness in there? During midday sun? If so that's ambitious as all hell.
I wouldn't want to pay your heating and cooling bill. It must be off the charts trying to cool that in the summer, especially when you go light dep mode. I'd be interested to know what's under the hood, heating and cooling wise.
Thanks guys, one of these days when im all set up i would love to do some traveling helping people set up. That sounds like a good experience. I do get darkness in mid day but i dont need to, i open at 8 am. and close at 8 pm. It is still durring full sun but not straight overhead. Here is a few picks from a few days ago. I dont remember nugs starting so quick indoors. These are only a week and a few days in, they went in the friday before the fourth. They do have quite a bit of spider mite damage this round, since the curtain came a month late i slacked on plant care to get it done before they got to big. Here is the room closed just after 8 pm with the sun out.
Heating is quite expencive but the cooling is cheap cause i dont use fans, i have the roof vents. The heaters are high efficiency 300,000 btu's each. This winter was very mild and it still cost around 10000 im guessing. As far as when the curtain is closed it has been fine so far, i just have to figure out what to do to dry them. I am thinking one or two 5 ton ac's at the north end of the light dep bay and hang another curtain to cut the end 36 ft off from the rest to dry them in with the ac's cooling it.
Oh i have my problems to, infact it seems to be the same problem every time, it has just taken me a while to see the pattern since i was only growing two cycles a year. The last round you may remember the calcium deficiency that i thought was due to low soil ph, well i have been mixing the well water with the rain water and the ph has been good, in fact maybe a bit high some times, some are 6.8 but that should not cause a ca. deficiency, especially since i used the recharge tea witch helps the roots take up nutes when ph is a bit off. Anyway it is happening again and the only options i came up with are either the calmag keeps going bad because i kept it in the greenhouse and the sun degraded it. It would make sense because i would buy new calmag at the beginning of a cycle, if it goes bad after a certain amount of time in the sun it may of just happened to go bad in the beginning of flower every time. The other option is that i dont need the calmag and after a while the mg builds up and then causes a ca deficiency. I am leaning towards that i need to cut out the calmag because i used the recharge and new calmag a few days ago and it has continued to get worse, also i remember last round i first fixed what i thought was a ph problem by using recharge and it worked but im pretty sure i remember thinking it may be the excess mg also and i did not use calmag for a bit at the same time a gave them recharge but then started again. Then a few weeks later i got calcium def again and also the ph was back down dispite the use of recharge so thats when i decided to do a ph balanced flush and then resumed feeding with calmag with no further issues and thats when i decided it was a ph issue but was of coarse wrong. So with my way to detailed description of what has happened would you guys agree that it is more likely that i have a mg excess that is locking out ca.? I will be doing a 6.2 ph flush with florakleen tomorrow and if agreed by you guys that my conclusion is a good possibility will start feeding right away but without the calmag. Or mabe after flush i should do 1 dose of calmag to correct the deficiency since the excess mg will be flushed away. What do you guys think?
lock out is my guess. I would wait a day after flushing to hit with cal mag again because I'm not sure how quickly flushing will unlock a lockout.
The heat is what's causing it imo. You for sure have lockout and your plan sounds good. All of my plants that are being fed Lucas formula start doing it every year as soon as it stays over 90 for any length of time. I've managed to retard it to some degree by using less feed and water. Less water is not happening this year. We had like 10 days over 105, now we're on the third or fourth day again. It's 108 right now and i watered my plants at 2gph from 8:00pm yesterday's until 7:00 am this morning. I've had to do it three times in 10 days. One plant that is getting all organic fed is having no issues. In fact it's a reveged cheese krush.
Either cal or mag, not sure witch one does help plants deal with heat so the heat stress would come with it. It hasnt been a hot summer here though, it was hot a couple weeks ago and that is when they looked the best. Ya it makes sense to let the florakleen do its thing for a day. Something ive been meaning to ask and keep forgetting, what is your guys' opinion on how easy is it to get root rot? I am always afraid of it and let my plants get bone dry before watering. I wait till the promix is to that really light brown it is when it is 100% dry, i wipe away the top to make sure it is that color even under the top. It sux having to check them all multiple times a day just because some are not quite that light color but will be 3 or 4 hours later. Basically im asking how wet do you guys think i would have to keep it for how long in promix to risk root rot. Ide like to not be afraid to water moist ones in the am so i dont have to do it half way through the day and can actually go do something without worrying they will wilt. Oh and they are 35 gal. Tan smart pots
No matter how big the pot is I always went by the finger in the soil method. I always stuck my finger in the soil and if it was dry up to my knuckle I would water. Having said that, I have NEVER had plants in 35 gallon pots.
In MUCH smaller containers straight Promix can be a real bitch for root rot. I cut it by almost 50% with vermiculite to get better/more even drainage. Seems to do the job and gives a little more fudge room.
Cut and hung them last friday and trimmed them this weekend, no final weight yet but it is at least 30 lb, second full run with advanced and the quality of a couple strains was very noticeably better then i have ever had with them and ive had them a few years. If i get the calcium deficiency i always get in flower figured out i should be able to get a much better yield. I would think i should be able to get 3 lbs off the size plants i just cut but only got 1.5 on the best ones 1 on most of them. I also think i have some learning to do with pruning this size plant, you can see in the pics there was lots of empty space i could have let branches grow into instead of pruning them off. Here is the new dry racks, i had all the metal layin around. They work good, i filled these 4 and 4 more.
How'd you end up liking those new black out curtains? Nice haul btw...thinking it's pretty stinky 'round your place about now.
