Has anybody ever grown in such a way? Train the tip below the level of the roots scrog sort of style. I wonder about nutrient up take and how it would be efected? Any ideas anyone?
I can think of only one growing technique that even remotely sounds like what you sort of describe. With the ground layer method, you prepare lower limbs for rooting, then bury the stripped, treated node, water and wait for roots to form. It can even be done on the main stem, if you start forming it early. the earth girl gives her 2cents
I'm not too sure what you are asking Streaker. Are you attempting to train the root ball on the stem or are you attempting to train your roots. I'm not too sure about the root ball but I personally train and prune my roots.
\no, the idea is... Grow the seedling out of the pot or whatever, then train the main stem across, low untii it can go lower than the pot, continue to train it till the end tip is below the level of the roots in the pot. The idea would be to have one hydro gully of roots and feed, train the stems out to the side across the canopy, scrog stylee. The question is whether any advantage would be gained in training the plants on a downward slope,so the tips are below the actual root height. Could this improve feed uptake, in hydro I can determine exactly what feed is given, both strength and volume. But I worry about overwatering and the plant's reaction. Any more sense? . . . . . . . . . ... ------------- ............... - - ...... - Pot - ... - - .. - ...Tip!
My viseral reaction is to say that it would misdirect hormones, as the primary budding sites are usually the highest or farthest, which is where the flowering hormones are designed to go. I have trained a plant scrog style, starting flat beneath the light, then forming the screen to follow the shape of the bulb.
I'm with Earth Girl (not literally you hounds! I'm a happily married man, and she is still available so stop your barking!) My thoughts are that kind of training would not promote any larger growth, more fluent nutrient disbursement and/or better buds. Long-short: the best solution is to try it and see, as experimentation is a great way o learn. Who knows? We might be wrong, and this could prove to be a vvery effective and advantage approach to growing. I have never seen this attempted.
I have tried it, sort of; I used to grow with a 400 hps under my plants, facing up just to get more buds. The lower branches, hanging over the edge of the pot were trained down so the tips were eventually lower than the base of the plant or soil line. the buds appeared slightly smaller than ones on top of the plant with equal stem thickness. i am not sure if this was due to A) the leaves receiving light from the bottom (less chloroplasts in cells on underside of leaf) or B) the declining slope effecting gravitropism- (the ability of shoots and tips to detect and respond to gravity) which may have implications in the release and direction of hormones? Personally i see no particular advantage in doing it! I train my plants so the plant canopy forms a concave shape under the globe, thus allowing all colas to receive similar amounts of light by being the same distance from the light source.
What you are doing is attempting to train mj to be a vine Streaker but mj isn't a vine. It's elasticity of it's stem is completely different and I believe that over time as weight is built up, your mj will snap. The hormones in the apical meristem will greatly be affected as well; not to mention the hormones produced at the bottom of the plant which tells the plant to stretch when lack of light conditions are present. Overall I hypothesize that the effects are more negative than positive and will in some way warp or stunt the plants growth. If you are going to proceed with the experiment, please keep all of us informed as that is one hell of an experiment I never would have dreamed of.
Yo! grobros! Light below the plants is a good thing. There are plenty of chloroplasts to use it. I maximize light efficiency by placin g reflective material beneath plants and closely around them. I often use virtual 100W CFs below and between plants as they begin to outreach my 175W MH, and in the early am and starting in the early pm, when the sun is beyond the reach of my big south facing upperstory window. When I first began growing about 7 years ago, I had no web access, no grower friends, and only an old c.1976 grow book by Murphy. And anything the public library could supply about growing flowering plants indoors. When I hit the net(I was then known as Lost in Space), and found Cannabis.com, I went ballistic ! How glorious to meet with likeminded folks, who were willing to share their knowledge and ideas with me. And with whom I could share my questions, concerns, and triumphs . Thus began the earth girl's meteoric course as a home growing, recycling, do-it-with-whatever-is-on-hand, feel-good, peaceloving rebel of the Overgrow. I became the experimentater. Many times someone would ask, "could{this or that}work?", so I had to try, just to see. My scientific background (biology, botany, entemology, faunal analysis, geology, mathematics, minerology) made experimentation an important and unavoidable part of this grower's routine. I'm still in an experimentation mode, because someone was curious about growing in a worm bed. I practice vermiculture, so I started a colony in a wash tub, and they have been turning the bedding into a rich layer of castings all summer. When I get the HECP's from Useless, I'll be ready to add the topsoil of coir and clay, sow my seeds and see what happens! the eg
Thanks for opening up, and helping. given the helpful and experience of other I shall maybe only set 1 if any away in this fashion. Probably none. Thanks Streaker from the UK.
