Adding UV and IR to LEDs.

Discussion in 'DIY LED Builds' started by CREATIVE GARDENER, Jan 9, 2016.

  1. CREATIVE GARDENER

    CREATIVE GARDENER Cured Fat Sticky Bud

    I recently built some panels with 4' LED strip lights (60w per strip).


    2 panels are 3' X 4' with 10 strips, 1 panel 18" X 4' with 5 strips.


    The lights have about 75% red and 25% blue diodes and work great. But I noticed that their "new improved" version replaced about 15% of the red with IR and 25% of the blue with UV diodes. Which seems like a healthy reduction in the PAR.


    My question is, how much UV and IR is optimal? I can easily add new, or replace existing, strips to get a good balance of UV and IR. That is, if I had some idea of what a "good" balance was.


    Be Cool, CG
     
  2. ResinRubber

    ResinRubber Civilly disobedient/Mod

    Start reading up on the "Emerson Effect" as it relates to cannabis.
     
  3. CREATIVE GARDENER

    CREATIVE GARDENER Cured Fat Sticky Bud

    Thanks Res!! :thumbs-up::coool:Interesting..... wished I'd read up on this subject earlier.


    The lights come standard with diodes working at 630nm and 660nm on the red end and 470nm on the blue side. The "new" version incorporates diodes working at 740nm (IR) and 390nm (UV).


    The 'Emerson Effect' explains the added benefits of the IR working in unison with the other red ranges. Again thanks!! I just need to figure out how much UV to add to my existing setup to reach the beneficial level. ??


    But I'm sill pondering on the UV benefits. If nothing else I guess that everything does look cooler under a black light :jj:


    Be Cool, CG
     
  4. ResinRubber

    ResinRubber Civilly disobedient/Mod

  5. nippie

    nippie preachin' and pimpin'

    isn't this point of adding gavita lighting or something sim?


    while i think using the new hortilux t5s is supposed to add i think that's about the same as using reptile lights...basically not worth the problems.


    I will say under led i do find denser frosty nugs, but not sold if it's heat and intensity issue vs light itself.
     
  6. skunky

    skunky labor smoke'n lumberjack

    Don't use ir or uv leds. If anything add some 660nm for flower if you want, use 730nm for about 15 before and after the rest of the lights turn off. That will assist with phytochrome switching. Helps the plant think it's night time faster to get more out of flower. Then if you want uv just use the T5 flo uv bulbs. Arcadia is a good brand with more efficient uv output.
     
  7. ResinRubber

    ResinRubber Civilly disobedient/Mod

    Wanted to rep that but need to spread a little around first. Thnx Skunky.
     
  8. CREATIVE GARDENER

    CREATIVE GARDENER Cured Fat Sticky Bud

    Thanks Skunk, I kept thinking that flos would be a simple inexpensive solution, I just didn't know how much but Res fixed me up on that.


    And thanks Res, those reads you refer me to were worth the time. A lot of scientific mumbo jumbo to weed through but the basic theory was pretty simple. To duplicate growing the highly potent shit like Afagan, Tai and the tropical Sativas you are going to "have to" duplicate the light in their native areas. And get the right light at the right stages of the flower development.


    It's getting a bit tech for most of us but it's still cool to have a simple understanding anyway.


    Be Cool, CG
     
  9. nippie

    nippie preachin' and pimpin'

    A little off subject but not really.


    I was thinking about adding hortilux T5 with my leds. They are really high in uv to help give more frost etc. But would that actually harm the plant if it doesn't get it veg?


    Basically does adding uv spectrum burn up plants if you don't condition them first? Like if you take an indoor clone outside, they get fried unless you do it for a few hours they shade em.


    So what that apply to indoor uv also? Or is a different spectrum of light from sun that does that
     
  10. skunky

    skunky labor smoke'n lumberjack

    No. I used no UV in veg with either FLO, CFL or LED and never an issue with burning them up. I've literally had plants almost touching bulbs with no visible ill effects. Though I also never ran more than 6 hrs a day unless running only more equatorial sativa types like haze crosses, i.e. the SSH we used to keep around I only have seed stock of now. Ussually started adding it around week 4-5 of flower. If you go 12hr full on with UV with some of the indica strains you will end up with stuff that will either one, make you paranoid as fuck or out of your mins retarded and unmotivated to do a damn thing. Remember the role UV also places in conversion of THCA to THC. Since that just came up and on my mind after years of reading it explained something I was thinking but not sure of. I'm sure some of you guys recall the martian dust or red ISO/EtOH some people were getting. Some may recall me taling about getting it when doing an evap in the sun, well that's the product of UV solely breaking down THCA to THC, possibly other canabindoids and decomposing chlorophyll. So back to the topic too much UV exposure can turn those trichs much much much more amber than normal, and on certain strains will make it pretty difficult to stay on task for a lot of people. Including us daily users. I always aimed for about 40-50W/m2 of the 10.0 UVB bulbs. That seemed to do the trick effectively. Not saying that's ideal, because quite honestly I'm not sure but that's what I've done in the past. Wish I would have got around to using it in the LED flower tent, but never did. Mainly because of the constant rotation and not being able to isolate it from the younger flowering plants.


    Though cliff-notes, as far as going from a no UV veg space to UV flower space we(I or other growers I personally knew) never experienced that.
     
  11. ResinRubber

    ResinRubber Civilly disobedient/Mod

    Don't use em in the garden, probably should....:bong-2:


    But I do use UV in hash making. The red is oxidized chlorophyll. Like trees turning in the fall. If a solvent has picked up too much chlorophyll, UV exposure can be used to oxidize the chlorophyll and improve the final product. The trade off, of course, is you get either red goo or "Martian Dust".
     
  12. skunky

    skunky labor smoke'n lumberjack

    Yes sir!
     
  13. ResinRubber

    ResinRubber Civilly disobedient/Mod

    ....yeah...call me Cliff.:bong-2:
     
  14. CREATIVE GARDENER

    CREATIVE GARDENER Cured Fat Sticky Bud

    Well, I found some UV fluorescents. HTG has some T5 HO that are 75% UVb and 25% UVa. That's about 40w of UVb per bulb. So I went ahead and made the trip because I've had bad luck with bulbs and shipping!!!


    All the plants in the LED room have been flowering for about 30 days which should leave about 3 weeks left. So I thought I'd finish them out with some extra UVb and see.:wtf?:


    I have 2 arrays, 3' x 4', and about 550w each, and figured adding 1 of the T5s to the center of each for a few hours was somewhere to start. I don't want to over do it, so I was thinking that, on a 12 hour schedule:


    First 3 hours off,


    2 hours on,


    2 hours off,


    2 hours on,


    and 3 hours off.


    Giving them 4 total hours, but not consecutive.


    This aspect is new to me so any thoughts or input would be welcome and appreciated. Thanks!!!


    Be Cool, CG
     
  15. Emma2016

    Emma2016 New Member

    This image may answer your question?[​IMG]
     
  16. nippie

    nippie preachin' and pimpin'

    hortilux has t5s spec for adding UV either for adding frost in flowering or to harden off indoor clones before going outside .
     

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