DWC or RDWC questions......bring em here!?!?!!!

Agreed, you can push up to a teaspoon per gallon for severe mag dif... But you'll be golden with that...


P.S. midnight sometimes with dwc if your ph drifts it can show signs of mag def ... Always check your ph first and if that's good then I would treat with the epsom salts ...

 

I personally use it as a regular part of my regiment during week 1 and 2 of flower, gh 3part is known for being deficent early in flower

 

Yeah if I do see signs I guess that's generally when I do but ever since I started using useless formula I haven't really needed to only occasionally and more depends on the strain also I feel like some are def more sensitive then others. .

 

where they rotted or locked out ? i would just give them another week or so to get over the trauma and then flip em...

 

when roots get locked out they discolor...yes ph will do that...

 

my moneys on nute lock out.....

 

Hydro bud sizeI have 12 purp urkle that are 53 days into bloom. The fattest buds are down the stalk alittle and in the middle of the plant?????





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Sounds like they're having trouble exasperating or breathing thru the leaves due to high temps or high humidity .......what's ur tempsand hum?

 

bout half to almost full in my experience, how many weeks veg tho?

 

Mine were at 4 weeks yesterday (they are in day 5 of flower now). When I changed the water in them Sunday I have roots all the way to the bottom of the five gallon bucket and then they are growing in a circle. When I lifted the netpot out of the bucket the roots stretched out at least twice the height of the bucket.

 

That's exactly why bro.....your supposed to keep some airspace between the bottom of the netpot and the water....your plant base is more than.likely submerged and rotting from the bottom which is killing.any.new growth Cuz the plant is pushing all.energy towards repairing itself......them giant netpots suck IMO....too much media and too much room for light to travel thru the media...plus they give no lateral support

 

Ya, CC is right. You got to make them girls work for the water. If the bottom of the net pot is in the water they wont care about finding food and water cause they are sitting in it, which leave weak roots.


My root mass is about the size of a 1/2 gal mild jug when I flip. But I only veg for one week. they are about 12" tall. But I take good clippings and keep them in the rock wool cubes for about a 14 day...build my fucken roots bitch...time period.

 

I just recovered from some root rot a week or so ago. Brown roots. It was caused by high water temps and not enough DO in the water. I have 6 that where vegging for my tree grow and thank god I checked them and caught it before it got worse. All I did was cut the roots off on the bottom of the net pot and rinsed off anything hanging on. Put them in a clean system and put about 40ml's of SM90 in the system for about a week. All new growth started coming out and back to normal. :thumbs-up:


Get a commercial air pump and watch your temps! That is my suggestion to any one first coming into hydroponics.


There are other things but these are my concerns lately.

 

Can someone point me to the ( useless formula )


Thanks

 

Useless Formula


OK, I figured I would post this here, since some folks are asking about the GH 3 part.


This is my feed schedule -


Here is the nutrient regimen I use and how I control PH with little or no ph up or down...


So OK - feeding schedule week by week. This is the GH weekly feeding program, slightly tweaked. I will only call out the volume of each part per gallon of water in the following manner: grow, micro, bloom, ppm range. Example - 5-2.5-2.5-400/800 would mean 5 ml grow, 2.5 ml micro, 2.5 ml bloom and a ppm of 400-880. Remember it's per gallon. You Euro's can easily convert to liters. 4 liters is just a little bit over 1 gallon. It should also be noted that I use the hardwater micro due to my tapwater. I suggest using the hardwater micro in place of the regular micro if your tap water is over 200 ppm total or you have over 70 ppm Ca. RO water users should use the regular micro.


Veg -


week 1 5-2.5-2.5-400/600


week 2 10-5-3- 600/800


week 3 12-6-3 800/1000 (continue week 3 formula if additional veg time is required.)


Bloom


week 1 6-6-10- 800/1200


week 2 3-7-12 - 1000/1400


week 3 3-8-14 - 1000/1400


week 4 3-8-16 - 1000/1400


week 5 (discussed in detail below*)


week 6 0-7-20 - 1000/1400


week 7 0-6-20 (see below**)


* During week 5 if not using a booster like Superbud, Bushmaster Kabloom etc. run 2.5-7-18. I use MOAB (Mother of All Blooms) or BushMaster at 50% of recommended strength, and use 1.25-3.5-9 for the fert base.


**If running an 8 week strain you should only run the ferts during week 7 for a maximum of 3-4 days. This gives you 10 days for flushing. I should note that if I use ferts for a few days in week 7, I take the plants over the 8 week mark. Personally I flush for a min of 14 days. But 10 is bare minimum imo/ime.


The ppms work out almost exactly. I tend to lean toward the lower side of the range, unless I have a really heavy feeder that I know can handle it.


At every ressy change out I add in 5 drops per gallon of 35% food grade H2O2. During flush use ph adjusted water at 5.5-6.0


I will add epsom salt at week 1 of bloom if the plants are heavy feeders AND I see signs of an Mg def. Otherwise I won't use it. The only time I have ever had Mg def is during transition. The GH 3 part is a little low on Mg, but the PBP and Canna nutes are way lower.


Now- how to control your PH...


There are a couple factors that cause your PH to drift. The most common is running the nute solution too strong or too weak. If it's too strong, your PH drops. If it's too weak the PH rises. You have to find the balance point. If you find that the formula above is say, a little strong, and say you have a 20 gallon ressy, mix the nutes for 18 gallons. If it's a little weak, mix it for 22 gallons. You follow?


The other common mistake is mixing your nutrient solution and trying to adjust the PH right away. You have to allow time for the ph buffers in the nutrient solution to do their job. Mix the nutes up, and bubble or circulate for 12 hours before even looking at your PH. You will find the PH to be almost right on target.


I use little or no ph adjusters. (Except during flush). I use tap water, with a starting PPM of 300-400 and a starting PH of 7.4-9.0 (Thats crazy you say! The water is too hard, you will never get stable PH and you will have too much Ca, causing a lockout of Mg!) Bollocks I say.


Every week, on Friday I drain the ressy and fill with plain water. I let that run overnight giving the plants a little flush. This also allows the chlorine and ammonia to evap. On Saturday morning, I mix the nutes into the ressy. I DO NOT adjust ph at this time. Let that run as is overnight. On Sunday morning, I check ph and adjust if needed. Usually don't have to.


Doing things this way has saved me from constant PH drifts, and using about 150 ml of ph down every ressy change, and a little here and there throughout the week to keep it in the desired range. Now, the most I ever have to use is about 30 ml.if any at all. (I have a 35 gallon ressy btw) My Ph stays at a constant 5.5-5.8.


If you are still having PH issues using the above method, an alternative is to PH adjust the plain water to 5.5 BEFORE you add nutes.

 

Thanks MG.


When GH first came out I used the 3-2-1 for veg & 1-2-3 for Bloom. dilute as needed. GH nutes needed a little cal/mag if running RO.


THANKS AGAIN.

 

Where do you get the fittings for a RDWC system that would be using all PVC for drain lines. You know the big grommet thing that secures the PVC pipe into the bucket? What are those even called? Biggest grommets I can get are 3/4". I want to make a system that uses PVC down the road some day.

 

I'd tell you....


BUT


you wouldnt listen anyhow:BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:


Stop lookin for the EZ way out dude, you seem fairly intelligent, its called GOOGLE and the INTERNET brah:read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2::read2:

 

uniseals.

 

I found mine at