Easy Organic Soil Mix

In a very late reply to Gizmo; True, all emulsions are not the same. Wherever possible I've made sure to note Dramm and Neptune's are the preferred brands for just this very reason. To suggest using Useless' formula instead goes against the intent of being organic in the first place. Use's system is proven and works fabulously for lots of folks.....who don't want to grow organically.


Josh...In two posts on GK both have had links embedded to the same seed shop. Gonna assume your post is legit and you're just attempting a little subtle marketing on the side. :redbong:


Emulsions or teas will do the job nicely while retaining an organic principle. I'd add molasses as a chelating agent to speed availability of micronutrients.

 

I have been using the Useless formula - to the letter for a few years now with superb results. I also use DrAMM-K for normal feedings and DRAMM-O for veg feedings.


I add in cal-mag and a carb load (dextrose/fructose) as needed.


The only change I have made to the soil mix is over the past year I hav been recycling loose soil after i harvest. I put this soil in a bin and mix in peat moss - let it rot a bit and mix it in (50%) when I mix new soil adjusting the useless formula amounts accordingly for the additional pro-mix


The recycling has not had any issues and cuts down on my Pro-Mix expenses.

 

DXE me thinks your confused. Useless formula is for mineral based nutes and your growing organically. Useless formula and organica don't mix.

 

Zactly.


I recycle loose soil also Dxe. Just make sure it sits in the bin for a few weeks. Moistening with a little Hygrozyme or H2O2 mixed with water can deter any pathogens.

 

I thought the base formula i got on here was from useless..


Soil mix


Mix the following with 3.8 cubic feet of ProMix BX.


1 cup Epsom salt


6 cups bone meal


2 cups blood meal


2 cups dolomite lime


2 cups fish emulsion in 1 gallon of water


2/3 bag mykos

 

Close to what I use and I'm sure if Useless uses it it's just fine, That isn't the Useless formula all the hydro guys on GK talk about though.

 

I want to note that this mix is simply a variation of a very old recipe that did not originate with me. It may also help some folks to catch the original variation as posted on the now defunct OverGrow.com

 

My take on the recipie


All


I have been using a slightly modified version of this for a couple years now - tweaking it a little bit as I add recycled media and have increased the Dolomite lime a bit to extend the time I have free calcium in the soil...


Mix the following with 3.8 cubic feet of ProMix BX.


1 cup Epsom salt


6 cups bone meal


2 cups blood meal


3 cups dolomite lime


2 cups fish emulsion in 1 gallon of water


2/3 bag mykos


I feed with Drammatic-K during flower and Drammatic-O during veg - both Kelp based products. I add in some sugars for late flower and cal-mag as needed

 

tweakI have made a small tweak to my dirt recipe - based on a discussion on benificial nutrients in another thread.I started adding liquid kelp to the dirt mix - half gallon per recipe. The logic here was to include a nutrient that its only job was to meed the microbial life - the mykos...In addition, I increased my Dolomite lime by 1 cup. I am staying with pelletized lime as it will give me more consistent boost to the soil until I start supplimental feeding.The attached photo shows how the base stem growth has improved - here is a typical stem from my first full run (Lemonberry at 9 weeks) using this new soil mix. I will see the first rootballs later this week when I harvest these.Proof is in the pudding....

View attachment dan's GK-1.jpg

/monthly_2016_01/57a6cbaeacb7b_dansGK-1.jpg.52282dba86249ed5734d2fb84593e5cf.jpg

 

Looks good:thumbsup:


Always tweaking. Suppose it may be time to add something to this thread. The recipe is a basic guide for a starting point. Here's a cool chart about different amendments/ferts and the additions they make to soils. Really thinking about switching to these guys for supplies. www.groworganic.com/








And some notes concerning organic soil mixes and composition. This is by no means complete. It is a partial listing of additives and amendments most often used for organic cultivation of cannabis.


Manures


source/NPK/comments


Alpaca manure 2/1.5/1 Best poop available. No seed carryover, No need to compost. Low risk of burning plants. High in beneficial bacteria.


Rabbit manure 2.4/1.4/0.6 Most concentrated of animal manures in fresh form.


Cow manure (dairy) 0.6/0.2/0.5 Often contains weed seeds, should be hot composted.


Steer manure 0.7/0.3/0.4 Often contains weed seeds, should be hot composted if fresh.


Chicken manure 1.1/0.8/0.5 Fast acting, breaks down quickest of all manures.Use carefully, may burn. Also, stinks like hell - composting definitely recommended.


Horse manure 0.7/0.3/0.6 Medium breakdown time.


Duck manure 0.6/1.4/0.5 .


Sheep manure 0.7/0.3/0.9 .


Worm castings 0.5/0.5/0.3 50% organic material plus 11 trace minerals. Great for seedlings, will not burn. Is a form of compost, so doesn't need composting.


Desert Bat Guano 8/4/1 Also contains trace elements. Fast-acting, mix in soil or as tea (1 C guano to 5 gal. water).


Cave Bat Guano 3/10/1 .


Fossilized Seabird Guano 1/10/1 Slow release over 3 to 12 weeks, best used as an addition to potting mix.


Peruvian Seabird Guano (pelletized) 12/12/2.5 Legendary fertilizer of the Incas. Use in soil as a long lasting fertilizer, or make into tea (1 tsp pellets to 1 gallon water).


Note: it is recommended to first compost any fresh manure before you use it for 2 reasons:


1) to lessen the chance of harmful pathogens.


2) to break down the manure to make it more usable to the plant (and reduce the smell!)


The rates for pig or human manure are not listed because of the high rate of harmful pathogens they contain.


Organic meals


source/NPK/comments


Blood Meal 11/0/0 Highest N of all organic sources, very fast acting if made into tea.


Bone Meal (steamed) 1/11/0 Releases nutrients slowly.


Cottonseed Meal 62.5/1.5 If growing organically, check the source. May be heavily treated with pesticides.


Fish Scrap 5/3/3 Use in compost. Usually slightly alkaline.


Fish Emulsion 4/1/1 Also adds 5% sulfur. Good N source for seedlings, won't burn.


Kelp Meal 1/0.5/2.5 Provides 60 trace elements, plus growth-promoting hormones and enzymes.


Soybean Meal 7/0.5/2.3 .


Coffee Grounds 2/0.3/0.2 Highly acidic, best for use in alkaline soils.


Minerals


source/NPK/comments


Greensand 0/1.5/7 Mined from old ocean deposits; used as soil conditioner; it holds water and is high in iron, magnesium, and silica - 32 trace minerals in all.


Eggshells 1.2/0.4/0.1 Contains calcium plus trace minerals. Dry first, then grind to powder.


Limestone (dolomitic) 0/0/0 Raises pH, 51% calcium and 40% magnesium.


Limestone (calcitic) 0/0/0 Raises pH, 65-80% calcium, 3-15% magnesium.


Crustacean Shells 4.6/3/0 Contain large amounts of lime. Should be ground as finely as possible for best results.


Wood Ashes 0/1.5/7 Very fast acting and highly alkaline (usually used to raise pH). Contains many micronutrients.


Crushed Granite 0/0/5 Contains 67% silicas and 19 trace minerals. Slow release over a long period of time.


Rock Phosphate 0/3/0 Contains 11 trace minerals. Slow release over a long period of time.


Epsom Salts 0/0/0 Provides Mg and acts as a balance to Ca levels.


Mix and match formulas


Pick one source from each category. The results will vary in composition from 1-2-1 to 4-6-3, but any mixture will provide a balanced supply of nutrients that will be steadily available to plants and encourage soil microorganisms.


Nitrogen


2 parts blood meal


3 parts fish meal


Phosporous


3 parts bone meal


6 parts rock phosphate or colloidal phosphate


Potassium


1 part kelp meal


6 parts greensand


Sources include: Rodale Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, The Deluxe Marijuana Growers Guide (Frank and Rosenthal), OverGrow Faq,

 

I wouldn't personally. The kelp/seaweed is an important source of micro nutrients early on and helps the mycc to get a head start. It also aids in reducing plant stress when repotting.


If you want to skip the fish it should be no problem.


Dramm. Hard to source. Excellent quality. OMRI compliant.


http://www.dramm.com/html/main.isx?sitesec=3.0.0.0


Neptune's Harvest. Hydro shops and well stocked garden centers. Still tough to find. Excellent quality. OMRI compliant.


http://www.neptunesharvest.com/


Alaskan. Lilly Miller owned so it's widely available. Wally Mart usually has it. Decent quality. Low $$. Some Alaskan products are OMRI compliant but don't believe their Kelp fert is.


http://www.lillymiller.com/alaska.html#kelp


Hope it helps. Keep us posted on the results. A caveat, some strains prefer a milder mix. If that's the case, back down the blood meal and bone meal 30%. If you look at my pics you'll


notice almost every healthy plant is just slightly burning at the tips. The unhealthy ones are generally scorched. That's the risk of running a hot mix until you dial in a strain's preferences.


Once dialed you can get baskets like these.

 

WW isn't a strain I've ever grown. Funny that huh? So don't know if she's a heavy feeder or not. It's popular enough that somebody here has the experience to direct you. Just post up an ask in the lounge..you'll get an answer.


Use liquid on the fish/kelp. Tried the Alaska dry both indoor and out with some pretty poor results.


You only really need to cut the main sources of long term N and P (blood and bone meal) when backing down how "hot" the mix is. In my gardens K, Mg, and Ca always seem to be in short supply late so they're the last thing to be reduced, if at all.


Btw, that basket was grown with the easy soil mix as most recently posted. No changes whatsoever. Only supplement was a once a month dose of molasses during veg and flower. Sometimes it just straight up works.