Meaning, can you decarb live resin by cutting a plant and just cooking it into butter like you would if it were dry?
You could, but I would not recommend it. I prefer the taste of edibles made strictly out of hash/oil processed butter. The taste of chlorophyll is very strong.
you're asking if you can use fresh trim? Yes you can, Disco pointed out the obvious. Chop after lights have been off for at least 12 hours (helps, it really does, not with trichs though, just not as much chloro in the leaves) Another issue is the volume, fresh vs dried is equal to small sauce pan vs crock pot for the same amount of material...that's a bit extreme but you know what I am saying. Use water to help with the volume when making butter, if you want to make cooking oil...well you just gotta do multi runs of the same oil. Pain in the ass but I have done it on several occassions with little to no taste (except a slight hash taste for some reason...might be all the hash I throw in too) Decarbing is just speeding up nature....basically speeding up the decomp process. Don't go hella crazy and use a higher heat though
whaddya mean by decarb live resin? Do you mean can you make butter for edibles with freshly cut weed? If that's your question the answer is yes, but as Nippie pointed out it becomes a volume issue since fresh undried weed is way more voluminous than dried. I make BHO with trimmings a day or two off the plant. Tastes great. In fact it's better than dried material BHO. Wait a minute - aren't you a wax expert?
I wouldn't call myself a wax expert but I know some things lol. Let me ask, when you do a live resin bho run, do you use dry ice to freeze the material and/or use a dry ice sleeve on the tube? I have never done a live resin bho run only bubble, but I know they say you have to lock up the water and a freezer by itself isn't cold enough. But yes, that was my question.
I am going to do one and post it in the hash forum....chopping in a few days...full plant run, dry ice, butane only dewax....I may winterize if it looks funky but I doubt that will happen.
Well I think freezing the fresh material before you shoot the butane is recommended and good. I tried to freeze the material in the freezer before stuffing it into the tube. In the middle of August. Needless to say my trim was far from frozen by the time it was crammed into the tube in the hot garage. After I had the tube packed it dawned on me to do the packing THEN freeze the whole tube, material and all. In my defense the tube I'm using now is 3 ft long so won't fit in the freezer, buuuuuut... I ran it just like that, with what amounted to very cold green weed paste in the tube. I got great results so I imagine freezing the fresh weed properly prior to shooting the tane would improve that. One thought though - frozen fresh trim is less pourous than dry, so getting the tane through the tube might be difficult. I know I pack my tubes pretty tight with material too and if I pack it too tight it will take a whole can of butane and then half of a second can before it comes out the bottom of the tube.
1. pack the tube 2. put packed tube in freezer 3. remove after several hours 4. immediately shoot your 'tane The h20 remains locked up in ice since there's no handling. A good idea is to put the trim in a paper grocery bag for a few days to dry. With fresh wet trim the biggest hassle is 'tane channeling past material in the tube. Be really careful with the packing. A better butane extraction for wet trim is the thermos method or using a dewar flask with a prolonged soak. Making butter or cooking oils from fresh trim. I don't. It gets stinky in the kitchen. You'll know what I'm talking about if you try it. :bong2:
Res I hate to admit it but the thread you did on the thermos method confused me. Something about vacuum holes etc. But I gotta move to a soak method. I see how long it takes the tane to dissolve the resin on my scrapers. With just a pass through I bet I've leaving a good bit of oil in the tube.
I am just going to say from personal experience, if you freeze the tube first then blast, you're going to limit your returns. Water is polar, so if theres condensation in your tube when you pull it out which is going to happen 100%....then you're gonna be leaving a lot of oil behind. This is the reason you freeze the wet material preferably in dry ice...I mean you know that, I'm just saying. I know the thermos method but if you use the tube properly, meaning you pack the tube wet then freeze the tube with a dry ice sleeve so you're not moving it from a freezer to a warm room, you're good. At least I believe so...never down a fresh, well correctly I should say. I just know this because I used to freeze my dry material tubes and noticed huge losses...the oil would stick to the inside of the tube. Anyway, I will post full pics of everything step by step....this will; not go in butter lol
You should drill 3 holes in the top of the thermos, one to blast and two to relieve pressure. fill with material, blast, soak, strain with a permenant coffee filter....now at this point you can boil off the tane or you can do a single solvent dewax which will polish your current extract without a polar solvent,
Hey I just had a light bulb moment. Thanks man! I've got some questions I wanna ask but don't wanna jack your thread. Heads up.
Excess residue left in the tube is true if you don't use enough butane. There'll always be something left behind, but if it's a lot, then more 'tane or a longer soak is needed. I even soak for column extractions. The longer the contact the better. Polarity of h20 has nothing to do with efficiency (quantity) of the extraction. It has everything to do with quality of extraction. Since it's polar we want it locked prior to extraction to reduce chlorophyll contamination. At what temperature the H2O becomes ice is of no concern. Ice is ice with the crude methods we're using. My guess for an observed additional yield using a dry ice sleeve has much less to do with H2O polarity and more to do with working temperature of the tube. At significantly lower working temps, 25F to 32F for freezer tube vs -100F to -50F dry ice sleeve, the butane is remaining liquid far longer while working within the column. This gives better contact for a longer period with your material. In effect less 'tane doing more work because of less loss to evaporation within the column. asssit: FF-If you got ideas put them in. The thread is open.
I have a real huge problem with you saying it has nothing to with efficiency if the extraction. But if you put butane and water in a beaker together they stay separate, which says to me if I lace a tube with butane and theres condensation in it, it won't allow the butane to properly remove the oil. Why? Because if theres water condensed on the trichome it will forces the butane off ass it passes over rather than taking the oil with it. Have you taken organic chemistry brother? Water has a lot to do with the efficiency of the extraction. Not necessarily the water in the plant although I believe that effects the efficiency as well i'm talking specifically about water added to the tube by condensation. Now as far as temps and the dry ice sleeve I can blast 5oz in less than a minute and it gives a far more pristine extraction. Requires a can tapper and the appropriate hoses and a ss column. I use a dry ice sleeve and freeze my tane in the freezer prior to cracking the can. The less time you are in contact the better you are assuming you have enough pressure to move the solution out of the tube. You have the statement backward also....I never said I noticed more yield with a dry ice sleeve but rather I observed less yield freezing my packed tubes. The dry ice sleeve I was saying is in regard to using fresh material, in my regular runs it changes very little. People were saying I was packing the tube and my weed went from frozen to gross half way through....so I was saying pack the tube wet, use a dry ice sleeve rather than freezing and therefore you won't raise the dew point by pulling it from your freezer. The way you pack the tube has more to do with yield than most other things honestly.
Exactly! Anything else is just fine tuning. For any misunderstanding in process, my apologies. Wasn't trying to be critical, just offering a different understanding of causes as it looks to me. :redbong: With a decent thickness tube there isn't any condensation inside the tube if you do the extraction immediately after removing from the freezer. Like I said, ice is ice. Any coating or interference is already there once it's created in the freezer. The 'tane and CO2 sleeve will only maintain or increase the integrity of the ice. This is why I recommend at least two or three days of dry time for starting material. Less initial moisture = less ice in the material. Never thought about the part freezing the butane cylinders (with the exception of closed loop extractions), but it makes sense. Anything that gets the starting liquid below -5C is beneficial. Again, what I see in each step of the process you're using is increased wash time due to better working temperatures. Any ice or moisture interference isn't further mitigated nor increased by these lower temps. Once you're below freezing it simply becomes a factor no longer considered. My organic chem is admittedly quite weak. Most of what I believe comes from working with cannabis and simply researching processes then learning why they work and what's needed to refine them. If there's something to be learned here...teach me. I can be quite dense so patience may be needed. assit:
