How To Make Hash 101

Discussion in 'Hash and Oil' started by TheApprentice, Apr 21, 2007.

  1. TheApprentice

    TheApprentice Retired.

    (Info courtesy of Liza Scammel and Biance Sind)

    Making hash is easier than you think!
    [​IMG][SIZE=-2]Nederhash: pressed from trichomes harvested in Holland.[/SIZE]Making hash is an ancient art. The first proto-human who rubbed her fingers together after handling a mature cannabis bud was making hash in much the same way it is made today. Although the process of removing the resins from cannabis have become more refined, the essence has remained unchanged for millennia.

    Making hash is the process of extracting and preserving the psychoactive resins from the cannabis plant. These resins are found primarily on tiny glands called trichomes, which under a magnifying glass look like mushrooms – a head on top of a stalk. These trichomes are part of what gives cannabis buds their "frosty" appearance.

    Trichomes are most heavily concentrated in the flowering buds of mature female cannabis, but smaller amounts can be found in the leaves and trim of both male and female plants. The leaves and trim are usually unpleasant to smoke and therefore discarded, but they contain upwards of 10% of the plant's total resin production, and throwing this away is a waste of potentially potent plant material.

    Home-made hash is becoming an increasingly popular way for ganja gardeners to maximize their harvest, and produce something a little different and special compared to the same old big bags of bud! This article outlines some of the most popular and easy ways to make hash. We have not included techniques that would require solvents like alcohol or isopropynol.

    Many ways

    There are many ways to make hash. Flat screening and blender hash are relatively easy and inexpensive, but the final product will contain more contaminates than drum machine and bubble bag hash, which require some financial investment. No matter the method, hash makes great use of scraps.

    THC levels vary in different plant strains, but the most potent hash is one made entirely of gland heads. Most hash contains gland heads and stalk as well as contaminates. Contaminates, whether vegetable matter or otherwise, lower the potency.

    super Skuff

    The leaves, trim and other plant material that is often thrown away is called "skuff." Your finished product is only as good as the raw materials you start with, so take the time to inspect your skuff. Frost on your leaves is not proof enough that it contains THC, get a magnifying glass and look for that mushroom-like gland. If trichomes are not present, discard the leaf as it will only add contaminates to your hash.

    Don't alter your skuff in any way, if possible. Crushing or grinding it in advance will only damage the trichomes and increase contaminates. Generally skuff should be dry, but not too crumbly. The texture of the skuff is more important when using flat screen or drum machine methods.

    [​IMG][SIZE=-2]The yin and yang of fine hashish[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=-2].[/SIZE]Flat Screening

    Flat screening removes the trichomes by rubbing the skuff over a fine steel or silk screen. This is a very simple process but the quality of hash is very dependent on the skill and patience of the maker. The principle behind this method is that the trichome heads are of a fairly consistent size, so that when applied to a mesh of the appropriate size, the trichome heads will pass through but other plant matter will be left behind.

    You'll need a flat screen. Screens can be bought from printing supply shops for $10 to $30, depending on size, or you can make your own. To make your own, fasten four pieces of wood together to form a frame, then glue screening to the bottom. Small hole screens are best, between 125-137 lines per inch.

    You'll also need a piece of glass or a mirror to collect trichomes, a credit card or something similar for pushing, and of course skuff.

    Skuff used for flat screening should be dry, but not too dry. If your skuff is really crumbly, too much vegetable matter will pass through the screen.

    Put the screen on top of the mirror or piece of glass and place the skuff on the screen. Using the card, gently push your skuff back and forth across the screen. Using minimal pressure on the skuff produces the best hash. The first layer of powder that comes through will be the most pure and potent.

    Because the skuff must be in contact with the screen to remove the glands, it is almost impossible to get a pure hash through flat screening. For this reason, some people choose to pass their skuff through an old pair of panty hose or a screen with slightly larger holes first. This produces a mixture of trichomes and small bits of plant material, which is then transferred onto the small holed screen. The screen then only needs to be tapped to let the glands fall through and be separated from the vegetation.

    Flat screen hash generally contains more contaminates than any other method. However, it is the simplest and cheapest way for the home gardener to make use of scraps.

    Drum machines (Used in producing nederhash/Pollen)

    A drum machine is cylindrical, like the inside of a clothes dryer, and is electrically powered. Inside the drum is a screen which the skuff is slowly tumbled against. It's much the same principal as flat screening, except the drum machine tumbles the skuff instead of rubbing it. Drum machines can be bought, or if you are handy, plans can be found to build your own.

    The most popular drum machine is the *Pollinator, developed by Mila, a pioneer of Amsterdam's hashmaking community. She has developed machines in a variety of sizes to handle different quantities of product.

    The drum screen should be 125-137 lines per inch like the flat screen. Lightly fill the drum with dry skuff (remember not too dry) and turn machine on low. Let it run from a few minutes for up to one hour – the shorter the time, the more likely you are to get only gland heads. You can collect the hash-powder and then run the machine again to produce a lower grade of hash. Depending on the quality and quantity of original material, you can do this a few times, with each grade containing more contaminates.

    If your skuff contains a lot of larger leaves, you may want to put a rubber ball into the drum after the first collection to help rub the surface against the screen.

    Alternatively to make pollen just use between two and four high potent THC level strains of cannabis and make with ONLY pure bud instead of skuff.This is Nederpollen or Pollen for short.

    [​IMG][SIZE=-2]A half-kilo of Moroccan[/SIZE]

    Unlike the previous methods which use screens to filter the trichomes, the blender method uses the principle that the resin glands are heavier than water, while other plant material is not.
    The blender method uses water, ice and agitation to dislodge the trichomes. Ice-water makes the trichomes brittle, causing the resin glands to solidify and become easy to snap off. The glands are heavier than water so they sink to the bottom when separated, while the plant material floats.

    To make hash this way you'll need a blender, ice cubes, a reusable metal coffee filter or silk screening, a large glass jar and paper coffee filters.

    Fill the blender about half-way with skuff, then cover with cold water and add a tray of ice cubes. Blend for 45 seconds to a minute – the mixture will become green and frothy, like a smoothie. Pour this mix through the metal coffee filter into your glass jar. Run more water through the filter to make sure you haven't missed any trichomes.

    Once your jar is full, put it in the fridge to settle for a minimum of 30 minutes. You 0should be able to see a white or blonde coloured substance settling on the bottom of your container – those are the trichomes. Carefully, so you do not disturb the trichomes, pour off or siphon off about two-thirds of the green water.

    If you have more skuff to process, do it now and filter into the container you just drained. Return to the fridge, allow to settle and siphon again. When you have processed all your skuff, add a few ice cubes to the container and let settle one last time.

    If you want to increase the purity of your product you can carefully put this settled mixture back into the blender for a final mix and separation. This may or may not be necessary depending on your preference.

    Pour the final mix of water and trichomes through a paper coffee filter. The water will pass through the paper but the glands will not. Drain well and allow to dry. You now have dried resin glands ready to be pressed into hash.

    [​IMG][SIZE=-2]A slate of freshly pressed Bubble Hash.[/SIZE]
    Bubble hash

    The ice-water filtration technique has quickly become a very popular way to make hash. This method combines the best of the screen and blender methods, using ice-water to make the trichomes brittle and agitation to knock the heads off, then straining the mix through filters for increased purity.

    Hash made in this fashion is sometimes called "bubble hash" - because it is so pure that it bubbles when heated! Well-made bubble hash is a very potent product – a tiny piece will produce enough billows of smoke to get a small crowd high.

    The two main commercial ice-water filtration systems available are "Bubble Bags" from Fresh Headies and the Ice-o-lator, another product developed by Mila. Both operate on the same principle of using cold water and filtering bags to isolate trichomes. You can also make your own kit by acquiring mesh of the appropriate sizes and carefully sowing it into bags of strong material.

    In order to make bubble hash you'll need a kit with filtering bags, two impeccably clean five gallon pails and a hand mixer. The exact method can vary depending on which system you're using, but the essentials are the same. The Ice-o-lator uses two filters to screen out contaminates, leaving the trichomes caught in the second filter. The bubble bag kits from Fresh Headies contain either three or six colour–coded bags, and allow you to simultaneously make different grades of hash.

    To start with a bubblebag kit, place your skuff into one of your five gallon buckets. Use up to 100 grams of dry skuff, or double that weight if it's fresh or wet.

    Because ice makes the trichomes brittle, add plenty - at least six ice cube trays. Then fill up the bucket with cold water. Leave a few inches at the top so you don't splash too much when mixing.

    Use the hand mixer to blend continuously for 15 minutes to one hour or more. Mixing longer will produce a higher yield that will be slightly less potent. The mixture will become green and frothy. You should take breaks every so often to let the mixture settle.

    When done mixing, allow the mixture to settle for at least 30 minutes. If the ice has melted, add more. If possible, put the pail in the freezer, or outside if you live in a cold climate – you want that water to stay cold!

    Now put your "work bag" into your second bucket. This bag should have a screen size between 200 and 250 microns, the one from Fresh Headies is 220. Pour your frothy green mix into the work bag in the second bucket. Slowly lift out the bag and squeeze out the water. Set aside the work bag with the green matter for a second rinse.

    Now you have a bucket full of green water which contains many trichomes, as well as other contaminants. Everything that was smaller than 220 microns is in that water.

    Arrange the other bags inside of the now empty bucket. Put the bag with the finest mesh in the bucket first, then place the bags with larger screen sizes inside the first one. With the Fresh Headies three bag kit you put the 25 micron bag in first and the 73 micron bag inside of it. You'll get fine hash if you just use one bag with a screen size around 73 microns.

    Now you carefully pour the green water into the bucket with the bags. Then you slowly lift out each bag in succession, being sure to give them time to drain. If you're using a 25 micron bag it will drain very slowly – be patient. Squeeze out the excess water from each bag after it is drained.

    You will now have a brownish sludge at the bottom of the bags. Remove it with a credit card or spoon to a plastic bag. Blot the sludge with a towel to remove excess moisture, and let it dry out for at least 12 hours. You might want to wait up to a week for it to fully dry and cure, if you are that patient! Be sure that your product is entirely dried so as to avoid mold problems later on.

    You'll get less product from the 25 micron bag, but it will have a unique and potent affect when consumed. Bubble bag creator "Bubble Man" speculates that these are the smaller trichome heads – not immature, but simply the smaller heads associated with Sativa strains. He argues that Indica strains have larger trichome heads, and that Sativa strains have smaller heads on longer stalks. Crosses between these two types doesn't produce medium sized trichomes, but rather a mix of the large and small. This theory seems to be borne out by results, but much more research needs to be done.

    Now go back and give the green matter in the work bag a second rinse, to be sure that you get out every last trichome!

    The yield from 200 grams of skuff is around 6 to 20 grams, with an average yield around 10 grams. The quantity of hash produced depends in large part upon the quality of your original material.



    The previous four techniques leave you with a product that, once dried, resembles sand. This "sand" is actually a collection of trichome heads and stalks. In Holland, these heads are referred to as "pollen" or "polm," which can create confusion as the trichomes are clearly not a "pollen" as defined by the english use of the word. Because it is a powder and a potent cannabis extract, this raw product is also sometimes jokingly referred to as "hippy crack."

    The final step to making hash is to turn this powder into a solid mass. This can be as simple as rubbing small quantities between your hands to produce a ball of resin, as our ancestors did thousands of years ago. (Unlike our ancient ancestors, you should wash your hands first!)

    Another way is to press this powder into a bar or cake. The powder should be completely dry before pressing. If it stored damp it can become moldy, ruining your precious product. So be sure it is totally dry! If you put it into the freezer for a while the water inside will coagulate on the surface as ice and can then be blotted off.

    To press you'll need heavy plastic wrap, cardboard, newspaper, a frying pan, a heavy rolling pin and a tile or marble surface for rolling.

    Cut the cardboard to the size you would like your finished bar to be. Make a bag around the cardboard, then remove cardboard. Fill the bag with dry trichomes, seal and wrap in several layers of wet newspaper. Place bundle in frying pan on very low setting. Turn your bar often and unwrap to check if all the trichomes are melted. Don't let the newspapers dry out or catch on fire!

    Once melted, remove from frying pan, leave wrapped in newspaper, and transfer to the rolling surface. Using the rolling pin, press and roll from the center out. Continue doing this all the way around your bar for 30 to 45 minutes.

    Unwrap newspaper and allow to cool in freezer for at least one hour. Then unwrap from your plastic. You now have some awesome hash!

    Hash bash

    Hash can be smoked, eaten and even taken as a suppository if you are so inclined. If your pot products are intended for cross-border travel then turning your buds into hash is a smart way to maximize your smuggling efforts.(* * does in NO WAY PROMOTE OR ADVOCATE SMUGGLING in any shape or form.This post/info is taken from another source.)

    By making fine hash you have become part of a tradition that dates back into pre-history. Take pride in your work, and you will be rewarded with the head-stash of the gods! :eusa_pray::notworthy:

    PS: Im leaving this thread open for any hash related questions or posts and pictures of your own hash made via these methods. Image192.jpg



    40z left.jpg

    Half a 9Bar.jpg
    Last edited by a moderator: May 23, 2013
  2. El Campesino

    El Campesino The Farmer you have any experience with the blender method?

    I am thinking about picking up a kilo of local bud and hooking up some hash, but the blender would be the only one of those options available to me.

    any ideas what yield may be like?
  3. TheApprentice

    TheApprentice Retired.

    Found you a decent link...

    El-C,im not THAT aquainted with this method although know ppl who do it,....this link may be of some better use to you regarding blending,it comes under 'alternative to cold water extraction',its the 2nd method down the page.Good infoPeace:potleaf:

    PS: A kilo should produce an ok yield,maybe a 40% return or above:ponder:Thats just of the top of my head though.Needless to say the more bud the higher the yield but a kilo is a fair amount,depends on what ya wanna do with it El-C:wink:
  4. TheApprentice

    TheApprentice Retired.

    Heres a blast from the past....

    Just looking through the old GK FAQS there and found this post from HERBSPARKY from 2005(Herbs now getting old,20,000 posts old,lol),but heres some good info on how he made a nice ball of hash,copied and pasted from the old interface GK.Peace hash lovers:smokin:


    The other day I made this nice ball of hash from leaf trimmings I have been saving for a while now.


    Wawona wondered how I made it so I took the trimmings thru round #2 and took some pics as I went. I'll explain each step for everyone since I have seen some other posts asking how to make hash. Remember...this is just how I do it. I'm sure there are many ways to achieve the same effect. :animbong:

    Step 1: Crumbled dry leaf trimmings in my stashbox screen and sifted, swirled, and shook over a flat cookie sheet.



    Step 2: Using my blockbuster card ;) I scraped the keif into the first rough pile. This has contaminates in it so it shall go back thru the screen once more using the card to scrape the keif thru the screen.



    Step 3: Having gone thru the second screening I scrape into a pile once more and transfer the keif to a small bowl (any cat hairs left are removed. :LOL: )



    Step 4: Next I take another bowl (larger than the first) filled 1/3rd with water and microwave the water till it boils. I then take it out of the micro and set smaller bowl containing the keif inside.


    Step 5: After a short time the keif will 'soften'....this is where I mash it all together till it holds together. You may need to reheat the water a few times and work it a bit till it binds.


    Step 6: Once it holds form I drop the lil brick into a sandwhich baggy and reheat the water in the bowl once again. the brick of hash (keeping all fingers and toes inside the baggy) is dropped into the hot water for short intervals. I remove the baggy from the water and work the hash into a ball. This again takes several attemps till it makes a nice ball.




    Final step: Last thing I do and I didn't get a pic sorry, is to mash the hashball into my palm kneeding it like dough. The longer you do this the darker the hash gets and the better it holds together. Eventually you get a nice ball once rolled between palms. You can tell I worked the first ball much more plus it's a finer grade being the first sifting.


    5 grams of really nice hash for my consumption. :animbong:

  5. campogk

    campogk Wandering... but not lost

    bubble hash

    from my experience the "blender hash" method will produce far less than 40%... possibly around 10%? maybe 20 at most? if one is looking to receive optimal return from their investment, your best bet is to simply construct a set of ice-water isolation bags (aka bubblebags) as TA has outlined. the mesh screens are easily ordered online, and give far better results than both "blender hash" and volatile gas extraction. good luck! :punk:
  6. TheApprentice

    TheApprentice Retired.


    Yeah no doubt about that:thumbsup:... only prob is that this particular method is the only one available to El-C at the moment.I posted him a link that more accurately predicts th'return' using this method as i know it can vary,as i said never tried it myself but i have tried some other methods.Peace:potleaf:
  7. mistical

    mistical Blazed and Confused

    cool thread dude,,wish id,e seen it before my first attempt at making hash:punk:
  8. bushwakka

    bushwakka Germinated

    Good simple tutorial for sure, simplifies to the max. I have never done so myself yet but thats probably the easiest to understand tutorial i've seen.
  9. Cybele

    Cybele Working with MotherNature

    Excellent hash & oils info

    :hello: This is an unashamed copy and paste from one of my fav sites/forums called aswell as another goldmine or grow mine of info on all things hash/oils and methods of concentrating :potleaf: that is this site>> .

    These sites basically taught me in terms i could understand on how to make oils and other MJ stuff,cuz some other sites just go into too much botanical jargon for a simple girl like me,hehe,of course this was before i found growkind so i know ppl like chief smoking bud(after searching these topics in the gk search engine) had wanted this hash and oils forum to be a big success and seeing as hash and oils are my fav way of smoking cannabis i'd like to try add as much info as possible to people out there who might think making hash and oils is too much hassle.

    :stop: It may be a lil bit more work but you only get out of life what ya put in and believe me if you put in the effort to make decent hash and oils then you'll never regret it,concentrates are undoubtebly the best way and most potent way of smoking cannbis and getting stoned in my opinion but not everyone agrees like my partner for instance although even he loves a bit of concentratES now and then.Hope this is of some help to someone,i take no credit for it,just spreading the wealth of info amongst our fellow stoners.Take Care:icon_smile:

    What Is Hash Oil

    Hashish oil, more commonly called hash oil, is a thick liquid made from dissolving hashish or marijuana in solvents like acetone, alcohol, butane, or petroleum ether.

    The resulting liquid is then separated from any plant matter and the solvent is allowed to evaporate. The substance that remains is a concentrated form of cannabis known as hash oil.

    The first recorded hashish oil was produced using alcohol as the solvent. In the early 1840's, Peter Squire (a chemist in London, England) extracted 12 ounces of hash oil from 64 ounces (4 pounds) of marijuana.

    Hash oil is commonly sold in 1 gram to 5 gram vials made of glass or plastic. Color can range from dark brown to white. The more refined it is, the lighter the color and the higher the potency.

    White oil, the most potent and refined type of hashish oil is rarely if ever available. Honey oil, the second most potent and refined form of hash oil is popular because it is fairly easy to make.

    Less potent forms of hash oil are green oil, red oil, brown oil, etc. Honey oil looks (and feels) similar to honey, that is where the name comes from.


    Hash oil is very thick, and sticks to everything. It ruins clothes. The only thing that will take it off your skin or counter tops is denatured alcohol or a similar solvent.

    The stone from high quality hash oil is a very strong and relaxing mind/body experience. It can be almost paralyzing for someone used to smoking marijuana only.

    THC Content Of Hash Oil

    THC is the primary chemical that produces intoxication when a person uses hash oil, hashish, or marijuana. The THC content of good to excellent hash oil varies from 30% to 80% THC.

    The THC content of good to excellent hashish varies from 20% to 60% THC.

    The THC content of good commercial grade marijuana available to most users has a THC content of about 5% to 15%. The maximum THC content of premium grade marijuana is about 35%.

    How Is Hash Oil Used

    The most common method of smoking hash oil is to use the clear plastic tube that is the body of a bic disposable pen. Pull out the end cap, pull out the ink tube, and you have a clear plastic tube.

    Then, use something that won't burn or melt, like a pin, straight part of a paper clip, jewelers screw driver, or something similar to dip in the oil. What you want to do is just get a little dab of oil on the bottom 1/8 inch (or less) of whatever it is that you are using.

    Heat the oil on the pin or whatever you used by holding it over the burning part of a lit cigarette, without letting them touch. In a few seconds the oil will drop onto the burning cigarette and burn. Hold the end of the tube above the cigarette and suck in the smoke.

    After a few tries you will be able to determine how much oil to use without letting any go to waste and how far to keep the plastic tube from the cigarette so it doesn't melt.

    For a nicer piece of equipment, take an old tablespoon. Bend the handle so that the handle bends away from the bowl, and then back so that it is pointing up away from the bowl.

    Attach the same pen tube to the handle, with some tape, so that the tube points down into the bowl of the spoon. Smear oil into bowl of spoon, and heat spoon from bottom with a candle or something. (This only takes two hands.)

    Another technique, if you roll your own cigarettes, is to smear a streak of oil on a cigarette paper, and then roll a cigarette with this paper. Better still, roll it with some marijuana.

    Vapor method: put an old knife on a stove burner (use an electric stove; use a gas job at your own risk). Let it get nice and hot (red hot isn't too hot, but of course you don't wanna deform the knife). Get a paper towel tube or similar-size tube and gather everyone around close.

    Use an instrument like the one discussed above, to get a little dab of oil, stand ready with the tube, press the instrument (screwdriver, etc) against the hot blade and suck.

    Don't take too much; it's got incredible expand properties. The stuff will smoke uncontrollably till it's gone, so make sure everyone gets in their suck without letting too much go to waste (it's good if everyone has their own tube).

    Another good way to smoke it is to put a drop of hash oil on top of a bowl of marijuana loaded in a pipe. However you do it, take small hits. The stuff is lethal on your lungs.

    To get the most bang for your buck, put about 10 grams in a 13x7 inch brownie pan with your favorite brownie recipe. Be sure to mixed the oil in well. Cut into 1.25 inch squares. If you do it like this, you will get about 50 squares. If you pay $500 for 10 grams of oil, the cost of a square will be $10.

    Eat one and have a wonderful night (sex is highly recommended). Eat two or three and become part of your favorite couch for 5 hours or so. Eat 6 or more and find out what heroin is like without having to mess with needles.

    How To Buy Hash Oil

    Lighter color hash oil is more refined and potent than darker stuff. There is very good hash oil that is dark brown-green in color but lighter colored honey oil is recommended for first time oil users.

    If it is available, try to buy stuff that is similar in color to the golden honey sold at most food stores. It should have an appealing hash-like smell, but not quite as nice as good hash.

    --- If in doubt, buy a small amount and try taking three good tokes held in as long as possible (using the bic pen method).

    --- If you are used to smoking marijuana only, this should get you off for a really good 30 minute buzz.

    --- If you are not sure (after taking a few tokes) that the stuff you have is very potent, it's not good hash oil, don't buy anymore.

    The premium grade hydroponic marijuana produced by many home growers is approaching the THC content of low and medium grades of hash oil and hashish. If a reliable source of good hash oil is hard to find, consider growing high potency hydromarijuana yourself. You can consume what you grow as marijuana, or use it in the production of hunni oil

    Weed Oil

    Do not buy hash oil that is very dark in color unless you know what you are doing. It might be a product that is sometimes sold on the street as weed oil. Weed oil is garbage that should cost less than weed. Avoid it like the bubonic plague.

    Weed oil looks like dark hash oil and it does contain some THC. Users with limited experience might think they are getting the real thing. Therefore, if you are not familiar with hash oil, you should avoid buying any type of oil that is very dark in color.

    If you are familiar with hash oil, you will know weed oil by its dark color and un-hashy smell. Real hash oil has a familiar smell that any user will remember immediately, even after years. Weed oil smells nothing like hash oil.

    It produces a very mild buzz, so users are forced to use large amounts (including large amounts of the solvent that was used to make it). Because real hash oil is so potent, very little is needed to get really stoned (only a small amount of solvent is ingested).

    How To Make Hash Oil

    Method 1 - Using Hashish

    a) What you need depends on the quality of oil you want. I usually use high quality isopropyl (read NO rubbing alcohol) for straight run oil, and good hash that hasn't been pressed with any crap to increase the weight and decrease potency.

    This is the case with most of the hash that is consumed in countries other than the one it was produced in, it tends to get "diluted" the further it travels. If you are not sure of the hash quality, don't try to make oil, it isn't for novices. Don't throw your money away.

    Another thing to consider is quantity. One gram of hash oil will take several grams of hash to produce, and even more for honey oil.

    Crumble the hash into a pot, pour in some isopropyl and heat it for 30 minutes. Get some high quality filter paper and filter out the gunk.

    Evaporate the alcohol and there you have it. For extra purification you'll need some petroleum ether (best). General ether purification as follows.

    Mix a solution of resin/isopropyl with some ether and water, then gently tip the container upside down and back. Do this about 20 or 25 times and let it stand until the layers separate (water/isopropyl with ether on top).

    Siphon or pipette the ether solution off and repeat 2-3x with fresh ether. Evaporate the ether (try to salvage it if possible) and voila - smooth killer oil (If you used good hash and didn't fuck up!).

    Be careful with the ether though, it's very explosive, sometimes spontaneous when it decomposes. You can go further and make honey oil with activated charcoal and very high quality filter paper but you tend to lose a substantial amount. It's usually worth it though.

    b) I have heard that you can wrap it up with dry ice in some newspaper and scrape it off the paper when the ice dissolves. Also, I was told that if you put your weed in a filter and pour hydrogen peroxide through it into a pot of water and boil it down it will produce oil.

    Method 2 - Using Marijuana

    Tools needed:

    Porcelain pot or heat resistant pyrex bowl, one which is suitable for use in the oven.

    Cast iron skillet (frying pan larger than the porcelain pot)

    Coffee filters (the re-usable gold filters work very well as well, these can be bought at supermarkets)

    2 bowls

    Isopropyl alcohol (commonly available at pharmacies, look for alcohol that is 99% pure, denatured alcohol also works well, sometimes isopropyl alcohol is called rubbing alcohol)

    Take 1 coffee filter, and place your marijuana in it. Pour the alcohol over the marijuana in the coffee filter so that the alcohol drains into one of the bowls. Squeeze every bit of the alcohol from the marijuana into the bowl.

    Now transfer the same marijuana into a clean coffee filter, and use the same alcohol to pour over it again into the second bowl.

    Keep repeating this over and over again. If you have a problem with the coffee filters breaking apart while you are squeezing the marijuana, use 2 or 3 coffee filters at a time.The alcohol will turn green.

    Next, take the iron skillet set it on the stove, and put the porcelain pot into the skillet. Fill the skillet with water.

    Alcohol is extremely flammable. Don't be stupid, be CAREFUL!

    Do not cook the alcohol over the open flame. The water in the skillet assists in preventing the alcohol from getting too hot and helps to prevent the alcohol from igniting on fire.

    Ensure your kitchen has good ventilation. Use the stove fan and other fans to move the air around in order to prevent fumes from gathering in one place and igniting.

    Let the alcohol in the porcelain pot in the skillet simmer on LOW. Make sure the skillet remains full of water. The alcohol will evaporate very very quickly.

    Make sure you do not let it evaporate too quickly or burn the alcohol.

    Once all the alcohol has been evaporated off, you will be left with hash oil. Take a razor blade and scrape it up and smoke it.


    Smoking Procedure

    The usual procedure was to get some heat resistant tube. A common approach is to get the plastic tube that is the body of a bic disposable pen. Pull out the end cap, and pull out the ink/ballpoint tube. Then, smear a small amount of the oil on a piece of aluminium foil. With the oil on top, heat from beneath with a lighter. Hold the end of the tube just above the patch of oil. As you begin to apply heat, suck like crazy.

    This smoke is very powerful, be careful not to take to much. One drop is considered to be a lot. The foil can heat up considerably so be careful not to burn yourself. It may take several minutes of heating the foil to get all of the oil. Do not hold the flame to close to the foil or it may catch on fire.

    Alternatively use an old tablespoon. Bend the handle so that the handle bends away from the bowl, this reduces the direct heat towards your hand. Smear oil into bowl of spoon, and heat spoon from bottom.

    Another popular technique, is to smear the oil on the end of a cigarette or a bud.:punk:
  10. ozalid

    ozalid Germinated

    Isopropyl method timing??

    I'm trying to decide between cold water and iso extraction. I'm getting confilcting soak times for the plant matter in the iso. Some have said no more than 60 seconds, and others say up to 24hours. The first says soaking longer than 60 seconds (shaking actually) will leach in undesirable chemicals.

    What is the profesional consensus on this?? Or just stay with Ice/blender


    Thank You:confused:
  11. UrBigBuddie

    UrBigBuddie MEDI-GROWER

    Screen it man!

    Silk Screen it man, totally the BEST way IMO, and IME, as thats ONLY the way i know of, or as TA kinda said, EASY as hell to make HASHISH/KEIF from THC count from your GRINDER, or TRIMMINGS off of your weed plant, or even some BUD trimmings too!!! :wink: Soo EASY mang!

    TRUST, Get your Grinders THC and Put it ALL into a SMALL baggy,(Big enough for your amount) AND THEN LIKE ta KINDA MENTIONED, KEEP SQUEEZING THE BALL OF HASHISH AFTER EVERY TIME YOU ENTER IT INTO THE BOILING WATER FROM A "kettle" OR A "microwave",LOL, BUT IT ALL WORKS ,(i SUPPOSE!):sign13: :)

    Did this "MYSELF", and WoW, whata Smoke peeps!:sign13: :bigok: :thumbsup:

    Peace out all GK,

    UrBigBuddie...... :pimp: :potleaf: HASHISH - :thumbsup:
  12. SirStynkalot

    SirStynkalot A Fat Sticky Bud

    I'm trying to figure out a way to make bubble hash... is there any way to make it with home materials to avoid that massive price jack for bags? where would i be likely to find nylon or polyester mesh in varying sizes ranging from 35-500 microns?
  13. HappyHappyHighGuy

    HappyHappyHighGuy dreamer and misfit

    Blender hash is the cheapest alternative. Not as pure as bubble, but very good indeed.

    You can buy cheap bags here.
  14. thinktank

    thinktank Coco grower, hash sifter


    I just ordered O'kief's three screen full-melt drysift frame for $99. I'm hoping it arrives tomorrow. I like not having to deal with water and mixing and ice and all the hassle. Drysift is clean and direct and keeps its fresh taste. I made some hash using a coffee grinder last night. A nice blond hash is possible collecting the fine pollen that sticks to the grinders dome. That has to be the easiest way to get get hash. Not very efficient, but a pretty pure product. When my screens come I'll sift all the ground up weed and end up with three qualities of hash. I'll start a thread if it works out.

    Follow-up. The screens arrived. No way they are worth $99. Wish I took the time to make them myself. They work fine, but look like you could make them for $10 at Michael's. Dryshifting is fun and easy
  15. SirStynkalot

    SirStynkalot A Fat Sticky Bud

    best of luck with that... and thanks for the link. I am actually trying to find all this for a friend who will let me use the bags in turn, but he specifically wants full melt ice hash so i can't order some alternative method and still expect him to pay me back for it.
  16. charlotte

    charlotte Germinated

    A nice thread with good explanation.
  17. Planet Maker

    Planet Maker Germinated

    Hello first post here, glad I joined :thumbsup:
  18. Chronic Don

    Chronic Don Daddy of RP & GG

    any suggestions or ideas on using a washing machine to seperate the glands?

    I believe it works like this, put in you cold water, your ice and skuff/bud/dried plant material, and turn on mahcine.

    set it up to pump the water through your bubble bags to seperate the glands.

    I am hoping to find out if it really works, or would I waste buying a washing machine and my time and skuff?

    anyone with experience with a washing machine?
  19. ncmaineac

    ncmaineac Harvested Fat Sticky Bud

    did a quick search

    and came up with this...just the first one...probably lots of others...

  20. Chronic Don

    Chronic Don Daddy of RP & GG

    yes I had watched that video, how-ever it never shows a finished product nor the steps involved to doing it. Did you notice it appeared the skuff was in a bag of some sort? or was it? what type of bag if it was? etc etc it leaves lots unanswered.

    I might just sit and think of all possible horror stories about them, figure out how to not have probblems and try it.

    with a set of bubble bags at 100g a time with all my skuff I'd be til next spring.

    I guess I should keep track of how I do it and how it turns out with a step by step. If I remember I will

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