the hydro here sucks

ukcultivator.biz

 

:LOL:

 

ime just being honest

 

Im not disagreeing clart...

 

the hydro section here is cool just a little slow i guess the hydro way of growing in the states is a little more risky,ie obtaining hydro nutes so on ..........

 

Yo Clart, the hydro section is only as good as the good folks who are members here make it.


KIS the best way.

 

Maybe it's the fact that we have more space here in the US to grow in soil....or maybe we just like our dirt.

 

I realy like my hydro set-ups and I'm in the states, but I do alot of experimenting with different methods like, ebb&flow, and hybrid aero/DWC. Some of my info wouldn't apply or wouldn't be appreciated. I personally get discouraged from sharing when there are so many people in the forums that are ready to tell others they are "full of ****". There are so many methods and theories that are inconsistent with each other that hydro is just one of those things that can be done in many "right" ways.


I have no experience with NFT.

 

Next time you feel like getting "wet" let us know JE, I for one will never respond with a comment like that...


I appreciate any and all info you choose to share! You have given me such good info and even better advice. Thanks JE

 

C'mon JE share that knowledge...

 

I'm better at forming theories than actually app them.. I just like to tinker around. What do you want to know about, if I don't know I'm sure I can baffle you with enough bullshit that you might think I know what I'm talking about. Maybe I should run for the presidency.

 

Baffle me with some bullshit about ebb and flow...

 

OK. As I posted in another thread in this forum; I have been making attempts at making my E&F more "aero-like". I have done this by building three spray bars attached to a common manifold. The "spray bars are made of PVC pipe and run the length of the table. In the spray bars I have drilled 20- 1mm holes also along the length of the table. Now the key to creating the aero environment for the roots is the use hydroton for the medium because it hold the water and moisture in between the many surfaces of the "rocks" without saturating the roots.Now, here is my working hypothesis (maybe bullshit). By doing this I have found that I get more "air-roots" to produce and the root mass becomes massive. 1.)Roots are seeking the water source 2.) By maintaining a drier root zone I increase production of trichomes as a defense mechanism against furthur loss of water vapor through transpiration (ex. you have probably noticed a wet leaf when one overlaps the other- water retained) 3.) I am creating a condition of "force-feeding" because the roots are always in ready state for acceptance, if you starve them they will gorge out when the feast is available. I like to keep my girls on this side short of wilting.


Now, one more factor that I feel is of extreme importance for all this to work. You need a high volume pump. You want to table to FILL AND DRAIN as quickly as you can. An air-root only need about 3-5 minutes to adapt to an underwater environment, thus becoming a water-root. However this also is a good thing, and here is why. Over the period of the veg cycle you can manipulate between growing air-roots, then for 2-3 days to convert them into water-roots (or in effect new tap-roots) by sticking to the same cycle and raising the flood level to fully submerge the roots. Then, lower the flood level to switch back to growing NEW air-roots. I flood about ever 4 hours for 90 seconds and the entire table is drained in 75 seconds. My depth for flooding is about 1/2 inch in air root cycle and 3-4 inches in water root cycle. CAUTION: when lowering the depth of flooding, do so in no more then 1/2-3/4 inch increments each day. This is the reason for the 2-3 day cycle in converting air to water.


Hope this is some of the bullshit you was wanting to read Jay. It may seem complicated but it's fairly simple. I just hope I was able to communicate it effectively. Take care, JE.

 

*baffled* Very interesting bullshit JE, thanks!

 

now thats what i like to see  thanks for sprucing the place up a little JE=hardcore hydro head     most safe one might add


(Edited by mistical at 1:57 pm on Oct. 12, 2004)

 

im baffled, but good to know

 

:LOL: @ Pie.. beat me to it!!


So what youre saying JE is basically that i should be able to flood for say 3 mins to submerge the roots and later in the same day i can flood for 30 seconds and help create new air roots? Would that work? Say the second flood was another 4 hours away..?

 

Basically yes you can vary the time but you also have to change the level of the depth of flooding. The air roots will form in a humid environment but not a saturated one. Also with the spary bar apparatus I've built the flood comes from above the roots and fills the table. I'll provide a pic.


http://www.growkind.com/gardens/JointEffort/1043/Spraybars.jpg


(Edited by Joint Effort at 11:38 am on Oct. 13, 2004)

 

Just another sucky, hydro rookie. Here's what I do, maybe someone has a suggestion? I run a drip emitter, rockwool system. They get nutes 15 min. on & 15 min. off. I ran it 15 on & 45 off & didn't see a lot of positive results. Many moons ago it ran 24/7, dude didn't kmow any better.


Not much info on drip systems here. My next upgrade I'd like to swap the rockwool out for those clay pellets/square pots you've refered to. Rockwool is expensive & the pellets are fairly reusable I think. I'd like to be able to rotate my girls from time to time. No can do w/rockwool. My trays are 6" wide with 1" pipes on either side, so I'd guess 4" sqaure pots would swap out just fine? I could then rotate my outer girls with the inners for a more even hedgrow. What I'll probably do is introduce 1 tray as a ramp up to this approach, as my rockwool runs out. Don't wanna bet the farm but it seams pretty straight forward. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

 

IMO forget the rockwool... It's expensive, grows unsightly fungus on it, and to be most effective you have to flood it more often (for fresh oxygen and nutes) which only causes it to stay saturated. Not that it won't work, but there are better mediums available.