Awesome write-up Dowork :thumbs-up: Are you using a standard Ball Mason jar or something different that's made from Pyrex? I can see how filing the jar with alcohol prior to blowing the tub would protect the glass from drastic temperature fluctuations but I'm a little worried about putting a reg glass jar in a cooler with dry ice. I'm having visions of a cooler full of broken glass & ever clear :5eek: Cheers Duc
I'll be honest, I would rather use a flask….I had on two occasions put alcohol in the jar and then set it in the hot water bath before I purged and instantly heard a pop. Pulled it out and replaced the glass. A ball glass jar is not ideal, but I think its way more practical cause almost everyone has one. Never had it break going into the dry ice, or pulling it out of the dry ice. Always it was going into that hot bath and probably because the air outside was super cold as well….perfect for glass to contract. I just have to add, there are ratings for ball jars and their ability to freeze, sadly the 1000ml large mouth are NOT rated to be frozen. I am going to be buying an erlenmeyer flask and a Buchner funnel with fritted glass filter for single solvent dewaxing soon….so I may pick up a few 1000ml flasks as well.
I found some 1000ml flasks on Amazon that will fit the bill without breaking the bank. You can check them out HERE. :jj: Here's another one with a wide mouth and made from genuine Pyrex. wide mouth beaker
Alright, I have some extract on dry ice. Will be purging tomorrow night….been taking pics along the way, should have the whole thing up in a couple days, just wanted to update.
Alright, I skipped the tube packing and the actual blowing of the tane. I assumed self explanatory but if you want those pics I can get them up.This picture is the ball jar, purged of all the butane with just the ethanol solution left, sitting in the dry ice cooler. /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2935.jpg.a5752a7c6f943766f4bfb36414a41921.jpg
These pictures are after 24hrs in the cooler, I then add a clean ball jar and my coffee filters (two unbleached toss away flitters and one permanent filter). This allows the filters to get cold so that the waxes do not fall back into solution once the cold ethanol hits the warm filter. I filter everything in the cooler…I remove the saran wrap from both jars and place the filters on the clean jar and then pour the solution through it. Cap the cooler and wait for it to filter completely.The goal is to keep the solution at -18F for at least 24-48hrs….I use a minimum 48hrs. /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2672.jpg.ce4a9f68f9669a9a5ea6da7c458b40b3.jpg /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2948.JPG.4b011d5310c799c5379d27ce9cddfb5b.JPG
Now that we have the solution free of waxes and lipids, we pour into pyrex dishes. The more dishes you have the better…this run actually needed another dish and i'll explain why in the next pics. /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2950.jpg.bb348ac773106399355dde3125fe61b0.jpg /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2947.jpg.a466d01799f1f11bd772f0e85d818b0f.jpg
Alright, the filter shows what we removed during the winterization. That's what grips your lungs and causes the extreme pain associated with a lot of dabs. Now, you can see the plates have evaporated most of the ethanol and water, I did this by placing them in front of a fan with a heating pad underneath…the heat isn't necessary…if you look closely you see white patches but also oily yellow spots…we want to avoid those. That's why another dish would have helped, creating more surface area so that oil doesn't puddle and trap water/ethanol. The more ethanol and H2O we can purge now, the less we will have to vac. The white patches come off like powdered snow….the oily patches are like a sap consistency and therefore we want to agitate those oily spots to create more surface are for that liquid to evap off. By agitate I mean take a razor to it and spread it a bit…sometimes you just get it as best you can…if I can't get it really dry, I will actually remove just the wet stuff and use it for edibles later it's usually less than half a g. I have vacced it before, but when it's soaked like that, near impossible to get the water out. so I remove it now. /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2890.jpg.ff5af4641e41550833798080a9946f7b.jpg /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2955.jpg.604fb31953e8a1b169af3c8e3924532a.jpg
Alright, this is the scrape portion…I set up my parchment, two pieces of the same size. I bolt one to the table and then use the other one to sandwich the slab and thin it out (pics to follow on that). As you can see, most of this comes off as powder, this is what we want. Now even though it comes out like powder, theres still moisture in there, which is why I vac…you very well could smoke that right now, may be a little harsh on the throat but its pretty fucking safe and clean at this point BUT we wanna make that fire, so we vac baby.EDIT: I want to add…this is the ONLY way I would ever suggest a person to make bho without a vac. High heat, whipping, etc will not pull those trace amounts of tane out. Tane is fucking bad, which is why I choose this method also. I have consumed oils laced with tane because I was learning. So I know, the locked jaw, excessively terrible memory loss, like mid sentence memory loss not the stoner I lost my keys bullshit. So I choose ethanol, a relatively benign chemical at low doses. It allows the solution to stay thin enough to get the butane out…and even if it's not all out of your warm bath purge….as soon as the liquid hits the room temp dishes, you will see the trace butane turn into little bubbles and boil off before you even set the pyrex in front of the fan.So if you do the steps to this point, scrape and smoke, you're way better off than a non vacced butane only extraction in my humble opinion. /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2966.jpg.63c5f5c12aaca02eb63ec0e8941905ec.jpg /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2967.jpg.33a1f3eda84c24240223ba7176ade8b1.jpg
Ok so heres how I thin it out….heat gun, laser therm and a rolling pin. You want to get the powder melted into an oil using the least heat possible. Once its a slab of oil, then start rolling it out with the rolling pin….thinner the better. I also leave the powdery bits in the middle and the slightly moist bits line the outside. I feel that this allows for a better purge of the remaining liquid. /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2969.jpg.7676f2eef53d090aedf46cb343d24585.jpg /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2970.jpg.cb8bd4feaf574fe27d6bf3b3553d042a.jpg
First pic is in the vac, last pic is the finished product, held from the bottom and stable shatter.There are a few pics missing, my set up, the pump, vac, etc. If you want to see them i'll run up and snap the pics, just trying to keep it as streamline as possible but I also know people may went to ask about connecting hoses and shit.Now how do I purge. I turn my griddle on super low, I want the max temp to be 120 and the min to be like 95….you have to sit and take temps to see where that adjustment is on your knob. Mine is just a hair past the warm setting. I have two oil slick type baking mats between the griddle and the stainless steel chamber to heat the chamber more evenly. Once the chamber temp is around 95-100 I put the slab into the chamber and let it warm up…I may even hit it with the heat gun from the top….very lightly from far away like two feet, just breezing warm air in there. Then, once I see the oil looks liquid, I temp it, I want it to be around 100F for the initial pull. Then I cap my chamber, turn on the pump and make that first pull which is what you see in the first pic.I allow the chamber to pull a deep vacuum, 30-60 mins then I close off the chamber and shut the pump, it holds a vacuum very well….as a matter of fact, I used to run the pump 24/7 but after talking with a few guys, I am pulling the max vac then allowing the chamber to hold it. After a few hours, when there is no more reaction. I will release the vacuum, open the chamber, let the slab cool outside the chamber, flip it, set it back it….rinse and repeat. I will reheat the slab til its liquid looking and around 95F (I try to use less heat after the initial pull) then pull another vac on it, cut it off after an hour, let it sit, then flip it again until there is no reaction in the oil.This run was easy, only vacced for 7 hours or so, 3 or 4 quick flips. All because the ethanol purge was done pretty well. /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2971.jpg.5f5effa47dcc6e92f53ab4a5b85ae66c.jpg /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2973.jpg.740b01aca8dbb6e8156973038fa1c100.jpg
other shots... /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2977.jpg.724630d33d0b4bba06ce186b82e8defd.jpg /monthly_2014_01/IMG_2980.jpg.0fdb7eff457a301d65b16700c555ed36.jpg
