Discussion in 'Outdoor Cultivation' started by greenjah, Dec 15, 2015.
Holy shit! That's a nice garden you have there!
This is just a watering wand but next year every plant will have one conected to a underground pvc pipe instead of hose and there will be a gallon meter on every plant that will let however many gallons i feel it needs that day through and then automaticly shut off.
It will not be fully auto but if i want to go on a trip i can just have someone come in and hit the botton on every plant and i know they will all get what they need since it is a gallons meter and not just a timer, even if some holes get pluged or water pressure is different it will always get the right amount of water
Wow like the old saying goes, work smart not hard. , i bet its still plenty hard work thou.
So my last question was "do these plants come from clones, or do you start them from seed?"
They are from clone. Some of the straines i have had for years, infact the blue dream was brought from california back when it was the new big thing and was clone only.
Man, your greenhouse is always so impressive. Your an inspiration here on GK for sure, at least for me. Thaks for kicking ass in the grow world and sharing it with us!
Now that is a proper garden there! Very nice.
Well i am having som problems. I believe it is soil ph, i have been watering with a ph of 6.5, i believe someone said in this thread that they find with promix they have to water at closer to 7. Guess i am finding the same. I got a probe the other day and checked the soil. almost all of them are 6.0 on the top couple inches and below that it is 5.8.
I think it looks like a mag and phosphorus deficiency witch matches up with the low Ph.
My worries are that the ph is low because of a build up of nutrients because 1 plant has been doing very bad for a long time so im sure there is a buildup in it and the ph in that plant was 5.2 so i hope the others are not because of a buildup.
What are your guys thoughts on this?
A bit of info i should say, all year i have been mixing nutes and then calimagic like i always did with other calmags. I recently read the bottle and it says to mix the calimagic before any nutes. For a bit i figured this was my problem but they have continued to lighten up so i checked the ph and im going toward that the ph is the issue but could it have been caused by adding the calimagic in the wrong order?
Also i have been having to water them every day and i feed every watering except weekends so mabe i should feed every other day not every day?
Basically im just looking for some thoughts, im almost 6 weeks flower and need this fixed fast. I did up the ph of todays watering to 7.1 so i will see if that changes the soil ph a bit.
Here is a few pics
From why you described about the PH difference in the top of the soil to the much lower PH in the bottom of the soil sound like you may have some nutrient salts building up in the soil. I would start out with a good straight PH adjusted flush and then start with a lighter feeding. From there I you may want to switch to feeding every other watering.
On the Cal/Mag issue. If the direction say to add the C/M first then that's what I would do.
Thats what i was afraid of, i checked ph today after yesterdays 7.1 water/feeding and there is no difference so i agree, i need a flush. I got some flora kleen i think its called. I will have to use the well water and just bypass the water softener. The well water is around 250 ppm and ph i will adjust it to 6.3.
I will be giving each plant 100 gal of water.
Does all this sound good to you guys?
You're not watering with softened water are you? Thinking that's a dumb question, but has to be asked. Pretty sure it was me about the Promix and 7ph. Duc has been having similar experience and no longer PH's anything in his Promix soils. But, we're not growing anything to the same size or length of time. I'd also think that daily feeds are overkill but I've never grown a 10 foot plant.
Dude, honestly, it feels silly trying to figure out what's up when you've advanced beyond what most of us are doing. That's a good thing btw.
Resin, after taking a online cannabis course and I'm working on another, the only thing that really changes is the size of the grow operation.
Based on what I know from experience and online school I feel very confident I could work in a larger operation with no problems.
As far as the feeding a go. Are you feeding at full strength every watering that could be you buildup problem.
Yes i was feeding full strength useless formula, i will definitely be feeding every other time now after the flush, i was only doing water on weekends but it must have not been enough. Flush will be tomorrow because the well pumps slow and it will take until 10pm tonight to get the 1500 gal bin full and that is only enough for half.
RR, ya i thought it was you that said that, i should have listened.
And no i use rain water, my gutters fill 3 1500 gal bins in no time with a good rain.
I bypassed the softener to get all this water for the flush, i figured it would be a waist of good rain water just to flush with it.
Growing large plants is the same basics but there is lots more care involved and more chances for bad things.
For example when the stems get very large they are very susceptible to diseases, fungus and mold. Once they reach about 8' i need to spray the stems with hydrogen peroxide every day. I made the mistake of thinking the better air flow in this one would prevent this, i was mostly right, i have not seen the stems rotting yet but there must be a mold or fungus that gets inside the branches or stem and kills it from the inside.
One plant that would have given around 5 lbs was fine one day and two days later, dead.
One other plant it must have gotten in branches cause just a few main branches witch is about 2/3 of this plant just up and died also, so at least a $20,000 mistake that could have been avoided just by spraying the stems once a day.
There is more things that are different but ya the basics are the same.
Question? So is it pythium that's attacking base or blue mold attacking the base. The pythium from what I know is what it most likely is.
Do you water in the morning or evening?
Watering in the morning and having the base of the plants clear helps the stalks dry out.
Im just reading and learning everything I can.
My goal is to be working in the industry legally in the next year.
Is that mildew in the upper pic or is that just the lighting?
When are you watering?
And frankly you may have to hit with a foliar to aid in the cal mag this late but then you are opening a whole new can of worms with rot.
Has a whole plant died yet? Is there stink coming from soil or anything?
Honestly I always did cal mag last and never had a problem, most nutes you are supposed to start with micro, but I did read label on cali and it says opposite.
I'm not a soil guy, but I'm intrigued on this one, I would definitely raise ph, but I would do that with water...not try to amend soil this late
Naw I get it boss. Basics remain the same, but size of plant matters. A ten foot tree is going to have specific problems we rarely see in smaller indoor plants. Not harder, just different. Add in time and age of the plant, and the possibilities of combinations of problems increases. A green house plant grown up where I live is going to be around 180 days old by harvest. My indoor plants by comparison will be 100- 130 days old. More time equals more chance of compound problems.
You sure you don't have a bug like wireworms or tomato borers or something? Again, maybe a dumb question.
Not sure what kind of rot it is, i keep the stems dry, it just happens when the stalk gets that big. I dont always water at the same time, i just wait till they are dry, it almost never is within a couple hours of dark.
I have had one whole plant die, it had no sign of rot at all either, it is something that gets inside and makes it unable to uptake water. I have had the worms that bore in, if the branch or stem that it gets into is a half inch or bigger they dont kill it i just spray the spot where they bored in with h2o2 every day so it dont rot and they do just fine.
If you've seen it before I'd guess it's still going on. Did you identify the worm? Borers aren't a problem with my weed gardens (indoor) but play havoc with my tomatoes and oddly enough my pepper plants.
greenjah for the times that you have lost whole plants due to stems rotting and the plant falling over, it sounds like Pythium, heres the description of the fungus.
Most info on the fungus also recommends watering first thing in the morning and that way it gives the base area time to dry out more. Its easer for the mold to take hold in dark with more moisture. So it make since if given time to dry out more before dark it would lower the chances of the mold taking hold.
I found it here for you.
On the reverse end of the spectrum, pythium is a disease that affects the root system of marijuana plants. One of the most drastic outcomes of a pythium-infected plant is it falling over completely due to a lack of support at the base of the stem, where it has turned brown. Pythium causes the lowest part of the stem to rot, as well as the roots. This mold thrives in a moist, humid environment and can only be spread directly through water.
To prevent a pythium infestation, keep your soil or rockwool at a consistent temperature. When there is a large variation in the temperature of these, it creates a “window” for the pythium spores to manifest themselves on your plant. If your garden or plant has is showing signs of a pythium attack, chemicals may be used, but only in frugal amounts.
I also found further info for you, after you mentioned the water barrels. Link. https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/cure-for-root-rot-pythium.31928/
Info for you.
At one time Pythium was considered a fungus but scientists have studied the various strains and reclassified it now as a pathogen. Growers know Pythium as a terribly invasive pest that rots root systems and is very tricky to eradicate.
What it does
Pythium attacks the roots of plants, turning healthy white roots to brown or grey. Root rot is often referred to as a problem of "damping off." Normally rigid root zones begin to slime as they are destroyed and clog the system with dead organic matter. An infected root mass is of course the perfect environment for pathogens to flourish and can quickly circulate to contaminate other plants, particularly in hydroponic growing systems.
While Pythium can and does cause damage in soil it is by its nature better adapted to live in water; certain varieties in fact produce small spores that move through the water, infecting plants throughout a hydroponic gardening system. Even problematic for growers is the fact that these spores are able to remain viable for a significant period of time so they must be especially vigilant when ensuring that their growth medium and tools are completely sterilized and the problem of Pythium truly conquered.
Start with a sterile hydroponic system. Prevention is the best offensive move. Hygrozyme, when used from the start, will help ensure that the environment is not conducive to pathogens such as Pythium.
Ensure your water source is clean. Tap water is often treated in Canada and the United States, but growers using rainwater or well water or other sources must be conscious that the source may be contaminated. Again, treating the reservoir of a hydroponic system with Hygrozyme will work to break down dead organic matter and naturally sterilize the environment. It is beneficial for soil growers as well by ensuring that dead organic matter is broken down, faciliating absorption by healthy root systems.
Keep the water and environment clean. Continue to use Hygrozyme at maintenance doeses to ensure dead organic matter does not build up and supply pathogens with a rich food source.
Proper oxygenation is crucial. An oversaturated medium often leads to problems with Pythium because a lack of oxygen results in an anaerobic environment, perfect for encouraging rot and the ideal conditions for pests and pathogens. For soil growers, perlite will loosen the soil and promote drainage to help prevent problems in the root zone.
The best temperature in a hydroponic environment is around 68 degrees. Lower and the plant roots don't absorb nutrients as well; higher and pathogens will flourish. Note that salt or heavy metals in the water will decrease saturation levels and result in a more welcoming environment for pathogens.
How to get rid of Pythium
Think clean. Rid the area of all organic debris such as leaves or stems, paying attention to the plants, your floors, the sides of the reservoirs - every place you can see. It must be removed from the area to ensure recontamination does not inadvertantly occur.
Be sure to sterilize absolutely everything that could come in contact with your plants, from pots or gardening tools to your clothing or buckets for water. Often people forget about items such as cleaning rags, hoses or PH testers.
Add Hygrozyme to your water so that any lingering dead matter is broken down and the area becomes inhospitable for problematic diseases or organisms.
Quarantine new plants to ensure they aren't bringing pests or pathogens with them to the now clean and sterile grow area.
Set up a schedule for cleaning everything so that you don't fall behind or forget. Vigilance is essential or you could quickly be overrun.
Just as we're told to wash our hands to avoid human diseases, be sure to wash your hands frequently to minimize the risk of spreading contagions around your plants and equipment.
Stubborn case strategy
Rather than using chemicals that could be harmful to people and the earth and leave behind residues that can further damage plants, we recommend using Hygrozyme in maintenance doses. Other enzyme concentrates contain bacteria to break-down organic matter but Hygrozyme does not. Why introduce potentially harmful bacteria if you can use Hygrozyme's non-toxic formula that is safe for any plant and is OMRI certified?
Most importantly, know when to start fresh. Pythium can be extremely difficult for the most experienced of growers to battle. For this reason prevention is the best strategy; if you don't get every bit of the Pythium pathogen out of your grow area it could come back with a vengeance. If you need to, cut your losses and start with a thoroughly clean and sterile grow environment and fresh plants. Plan to use Hygrozyme from the very start to keep everything clean from dead organic matter and the roots healthy, sterilize everything properly regularly and always be careful to keep absolutely everything clean.
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