GH 3 part - Useless' formula

So with the GH and the buffers they have its a bit of a juggling act at times. I always prepared res solution and let it set for no less than 4 hours, typically do it a day ahead of time, before ever trying to adjust the pH. Always added micro first then grow and bloom. The buffers in the GH at least when I was using it were pretty damn slow acting. Also, there really isn't a fool proof way of managing the pH after being added because the swing is going to be dependent on a plants intake. So due to that I would always try to group either the same clones or similar feeding type plants to a res to reduce and manage pH drift as much as I could because you will then be able to develop an idea of what will be occurring with each res.


After I moved a quit really posting on here I was using the pure blend pro stuff for a while with great results and with another buddy i was helping he was using GHs floralicious that's entirely different.


I'll tell you one thing though right now I'm using the AN pH perfect Sensi 2 part and man this has been the easiest I've ever used. reminds me of those RonCo commercials for rotisserie ovens, "Set it and FORGETTTT ITTTTT!". LOL Seriously though two other old buddies/partners had been used it and strongly suggested I check it out, both of them are running tables though. One is using the 3 part pH perfect with the grand master kit the other just the 3 part with bud candy(only because he said he thinks it did improve the taste some). They both love it and both were GH users prior and we all used the same method here. Since I was going to venture coco I went with the pH perfect Sensi coco. Eve mixing at half strengths pH goes right to 5.8. You can try manipulating it but have fun, I tried for fun and within minutes it would correct it self using both strong acids and bases to try and induce drift. Will be hard for me to truly judge since I went all LED for this small personal project. But I've seen their product and I had no complaints. So interested to see what these LEDs and AN pH perfect can do for me.

 

im pretty well versed on the MPBs.....me and a buddy run his 4pot Under current system and have seen some killer results under 4k of light, little less than 6lbs is the top out of 6 runs so far, typically around 4.5-5 tho


I think my issue was light and heat as well but now I have a 1/2hp chiller and can do a real run once the stars align again in a bigger space someday

 

if you have city water its already treated with softeners and chlorine you use the regular micro, if your out in the county on a well that is not treated that is usually considered hard water. the ppm he talking about is for the dissolved solids in your water, calcium, lime and such

 

I use tap and use the regular, hardwater doesn't really make a huge difference, you just use less PH down product to move your PH around, If I did a 40gal ressy change with week 4 nute numbers in flowering, i'd add in 50ml of ph DOWN to make the ph a solid 5.2-5.5 within the next 12-14hours.....then she'll stay stable and slowly rise throughout the week, hopefully all the way up to 6.0 or so.....that means they're eating well during that timeframe.....when u keep the same PH all week, its not necessarily a good thing, they're probably just drinking water during that time, which means your enviorment is off, more so humidity is probably way low

 

200 ppm total is a measure of "parts per million" of any dissolved impurity in your water. Only fresh reverse osmosis water is 0 ppm or close to it. What Useless is saying is if your plain water starting out already has a shit ton of dissolved minerals and other crap, and then you add a shit ton more of nutrients, the nutrient solution at your roots is gonna choke those roots and they won't feed. You'll get a ton of nutrient deficiency symptoms but it's not lack of food, it's lockout and the roots can't take ANY nutrients up. That's why he gives PPM levels at each stage.


I don't track PPM levels, because I don't have a meter. But it's a useful tool in diagnosing problems. Lots of folks run hydro without having meters, but you should know where you are starting in terms of PPMs in your plain tap water.


ppms for Ca refers to the parts per million of calcium in the solution.

 

If vegging for just 2 weeks and then going into flower you would start week 1 of flowering nutes for the 3rd week since you are now going into flower. I think Mrg uses week 3 veg for his first week in flower. But the rest of us are not Mrg.


Now there is some part of your question that is strange. "should I skip third week mix and just go to week 4 mix?"? If using the Useless formular for vegging, there is no week 4 mix. You run week 3 for however many weeks you want to veg.

 

I generally use week 2 for all my veg plants..

 

With that low height I would put them in soon doing DWC. They grow big. If I were you I would put them in under 18 inches.

 

Well put. I do the same ratios and numbers and have beautiful WW girls.

 

CC feeds with week 2 mix. I feed with week 3 mix, and I feed every watering except every month or so I'll give them a good flush of plain water to reduce salt buildup.


Answer to Q2 is YES.

 

Yeah, I also use week 3 for all my vegging and moms. And yes you can use week 2 for the new plant. You may want to start it a little lite on the nutes tho until you know it will handle full strength.

 

Still working for me!

 

The lucas formula works better imo, lot less hassle too.