This raises a question and concern. Sannie lists JB as a 7-8 week flowering strain. I just finished week 7. Regarding removal of shade leaves: The buds really haven't gotten any bigger in the last 10 days or so. Might I have, as R. Clark suggests, taken off too many fan leaves? Perhaps not enough food production now to support large scale floral production? With regards to floral development and maturation delay: As a 7-8 week strain I would've expected them to be about ready for harvest at this time. Last night I used the pocket scope and checked bud leaves from all the plants. In two plants roughly 10% of the trichomes have taken on a (very slight) amber hue. In the remaining 6 plants nearly all the trichomes are still clear, and only the occasional trichome had any amber at all. Clearly underdeveloped, and not ready for harvest. Although oddly enough and contrary to cited visual evidence, the popcorn buds (aside from tasting not good) actually gave me a nice high, and the grow room definitely smells stronger now than it did a week ago. What's my move here? (keeping in mind I'm in a race against time, competing with the developing nanners). To have grown these plants for the last three months, only to harvest with clear trichomes, seems a bit pointless to me. So do I let them go another 1-2 weeks til the trichomes darken up a bit? This seems the reasonable option. I've resigned myself to the fact that the buds aren't going to get any larger. So it just seems to make sense to delay and allow the weight that I do have to improve in THC content / quality.
Alright, I've been absent for a minute and haven't reread the entire thread but here's my .02 I just harvested and tasted my JB last week and it's officially curing at the moment. The amber trich's weren't there like I normally would see and I pulled them at 7.5 weeks as they were defin done. I could have prob taken them at 7 but I had to wait until proper flush was complete. I also have some Heri, that WILL NOT AMBER OUT, I'm talking 9 weekers and wife cut them last night. There were some amber trichs but not what I normally shoot for. That being said, both will do the job. My JB is purple as all hell and I can only compare the taste to the old school gum with the Zebra on the pack. Can't remember the name, but it tastes just like that. The Heri even though not Ambered, will give you a great buzz. My wife disagrees with the descript on the site as she says he makes her feel more artistic and head buzz, that a heavy stone. I smoked a couple bowls the other day and was drifting off to sleep though after a 14 hour day of working. I don't think nanners are related to the strain, hell I have some clones that I pulled out of flower that did there 3 leaf shit for a while but are now producing regular growth. I will be placing them in Flower in a few weeks and if they don't Nanner, then I would strongly disagree about this strain being prone to hermies. I will keep you posted if they do
Good info, thanks Nip. Are you suggesting to just go ahead and harvest in the next few days, since trichome colors are immaterial with regards to JB?
I wouldn't say the trichs are immaterial, but I think the plant would have suffered more from trying to let them amber than pulling them when I did. This was strictly a judgement call I made as I am relatively new to this strain, but based on my exper growing they were done. I am going to change a couple of things with the JB before flowering again to dial them in a little better, but the pheno I have chosen to keep as a mom needs to be dialed in a little more before I can make a positive statement on trich color. But as I said, my Heri would not Amber out for nothing....there was amber there, but if someone says 7-8 weeks, and you look at 9 without full amber glow out, I don't think it would happen if you wait 10-12 weeks if that makes sense. Just my .02, could be wrong, but that is how I am moving forward in my garden
The Guillateen Has Fallen So that's it then, the end of my first grow not counting the curing process. I chopped em all today. Some are hanging, some are on my compost screen used as a drying rack Much smaller yield than I had thought I was in for when I first got into this. I think I might get 3 oz - when cured - from 8 plants. But that's ok cuz it was a great learning experience The most valuable thing I got from this grow: The knowledge of how to improve the next round. I know what changes and upgrades I need to make, and I'll get right to it. My next indoor round I will yield over a pound of rock fucking hard fat ass huge nugs, such that if I were to get caught by the police with said nugs I would get arrested for possession of a deadly weapon, not possession of MJ. I'll get those nugs from just 9 plants, in only 2/3 the time, without CO2, using no fertilizers and the same 600w lamp. I hung some of em up cuz I wanted to get the authentic pro feeling lol The Kush. This plant on a whole was not ready to come down. In fact, I'm pretty sure 6 / 8 weren't ready but I know where my mistake was so I'm ok w/that. One of my two purple JBs Here's the shitty lower clippings (entirely not ready for harvest, not frosty), mixed in with the frosty leaves I clipped from the nicer buds. Guess I'll smoke these cuz no time to learn how to make hash atm.
First off, very nice grow.:not-worthy: Second I would agree to add another 600 if your going to grow as many plants next round. Let me know how the jackberry smokes. I got some seedlings going now. Keep up the good work and enjoy your own smoke. :coool: asssit:
Nice batch of buds you have there OG. You're plants looked nice and healthy all the way through the grow so I'm a bit surpised by the lower then expected yield. Do you think you may have chopped them a bit too soon or did you just run out of time & needed to get you outdoor plants started? No matter, you've got yourself some fine looking smoke. Good job buddy!! Duc Edit: just check, you started flowing on 12/18, only about 7 weeks ago.
Looks fantastic, love the color and frost. As for the yield, I think it had a lot to do with the strain. I've seen a few Jackberry grows now on opengrow, and non of them had good yields. Get a strain like Killing Fields for yield, sure it takes longer, but you get massive buds. Just my pennies, enjoy the fruits of your harvest :redbong:
Yeah I agree the buds are pretty. Of course I couldn't wait, jumped the gun on smoking one when I came home today heh. It's not a bad high at all, exactly how the website describes it; very uppity but doesn't make my mind race. They were not fully ready to come down I think, but it's okay Duc. What I got was better than a sharp stick in the eye. As far as it being a small yielding strain, I've heard the same as well before. We'll see by how much Mr GJ's yield blows my doors in Nippie recently finished a JB grow, and I'm sure he got a little more as well. In any case, Kolossus is on order right now. I dunno about upgrading to a second 600w... if I had the money I might buy two new 400w, but I think two 600w might be a little inappropriate as I'm doing a 3'x3' or 3'x4' SCROG with the Kolossus. Now that I think of it, wouldn't an even better option, the best $ per $ investment be to keep this 600w and put it on a light rail? I'll put in a smoke report when it's done curing in a couple weeks.
a light rail wouldn't really make sense for a 3X4 foot space. A good reflector will do the trick. I like the Adjust a Wing reflectors, the midi is perfect for a 600w hps. It easily covers a 4X4 area. Nice product, but it is a little pricey
I wanted to quickly brush up on what I've read of the drying / curing process. I visited the FAQ and read up. Apparently it's not what I read before, because all it did was confuse the shit outa me. Some of my buds are strung up, some are on the screen to dry. They're in my grow room which is dark atm, 62-65 degrees, 25-30% humidity, carbon scrubber running. The stems won't snap yet after two days of drying. I'd planned to wait til the stems will snap when bent, then pack em in mason jars, opening the jars once a day for a few min, for like 3-4 weeks. Am I way off on this?
If you center a 600w light over a 3'x4' garden, with a reflector whose footprint effectively covers the 3'x4', aren't you still getting less intense light out at the edges? I mean any way you cut it up, however well the reflector does its job, the light still has to travel farther to get to the edge of the garden - than it does to drop straight down - which means it's less intense at the edges. Of course this touches on the concept of a "sweet spot". Wouldn't the entire benefit of using a light rail for a 3'x4' garden be to eliminate the discrepancy caused by a sweet spot, to "bring the sweet spot" to all the plants? The only way I can see this being not applicable is if the difference in light intensity is negligible. I'm very skeptical of that possibility, after seeing what having improper light distribution did to this grow. As I've understood from reading and researching, the philosophy of a SCROG is to bring the maximum number of bud sites possible into sweet spot lighting. Additionally, SCROG was invented to effectively eliminate light penetration as a concern. As such it would follow, at least in my mind, that the most efficient way to SCROG is to employ the largest possible number of low power point light sources, to create a "sweet spot field". For example, 3x400w fixtures, positioned so the bulbs are all centered to split the 3' depth of the garden, and dividing the 4' distance on the 12", 24", and 36" marks. Or even better, a T5 fixture of proper dimensions, hanging almost on top of the plants. If I'm way off here, please tell me, and please explain why. Break it down to me in chapter and verse form where I've gone wrong in my thinking.
Well that depends on what your running. Im covering a five foot wide grow with two side by side 1000w lights. Not much overlap but Im useing tubes. You might get a light imprint with the right deflector to cover the area but theres no way your gonna get the intensity that the rail will provide all the way accross. Also I run 2 inches above the plants at ceiling height. Try that with a standard reflector. Youll burn the fuck out of em. The Idea behind the rail is the lights are moving so you can get alot closer. t6
You are not off at all, you are right to consider all these points, and its nice to see someone that has put this much thought into it. I am by no means a lighting expert, and can only speak from my own experience. Adding another light, or using a light rail just seems to overcomplicate things. You were talking about diminishing intensity at the edges and the hot spot beneath the bulb, and its true that this could be a problem with most standard reflectors. The Adjust-a-Wing however, was specifially designed to eliminate this problem. It has a "spreader" directly beneath the bulb, the spreader's functions are to eliminate the hot spot under the bulb, and to divert part of this intense light back at the reflector at such an angle, as to add intensity to the outer edges of the space. That was why I had suggested this reflector to you, it pretty much takes care of all your concerns. I do not have a lux-meter, so I am not certain how well it actually works, but from what I can tell, the girls in my grow that are located in the corners get more than enough light. I have a 4X4 area, and it easily covers it. Does it cover an area as evenly as a light rail? I have no idea, really I'm just throwing in my thoughts, but I don't have any real answers for you. T6, you have a good point about being able to drop the lights closer when they are moving, I haven't really considered that. i agree with you that the light rail provides more intensity when there are mutliple lights, but if there is only one light source, this wouldn't apply. Ok hear me out, and correct me if I'm wrong. You said that the plants get more intensity all the way across. Lets say that you only have one 600w HPS. The light starts at plant A on one end of the room, while its above plant A, the light is intense there but diminished at the other end of the room. As the rail moves across the grow, it moves away from plant A, this plant gets less light, while the other end gets more. Wouldn't this defeat the purpose of getting evenly spread light intensity, or am I missing something?